GV 

H-  2.5 
N  3 


UC-NRLF 


133 


AY  OUT 


QUIPMENT 

OF 

:>LAYGRPUND<5 


Layout  and  Equipment 
of  Playgrounds 


Published  by 

The  Playground  and  Recreation 
•   Association  of  America 

1   Madison  Avenue 

New  York  City 

February  1921 

Revised  July  1922. 


^ 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS 

Chapter                                                                 Page 
I.  GENERAL  CONSIDERATIONS 5 

II.  THE   LAYING    OUT    OF    THE    INDIVIDUAL 
PLAYGROUND      14 

III.  DISCUSSION  OF  COMMON  TYPES  OF  PLAY- 

GROUND    APPARATUS    AND    SUGGESTIONS 
FOR  THEIR  USE    23 

IV.  HOME-MADE   APPARATUS    34 

V.  THE  ATHLETIC   FIELD 53 

APPENDIX  .  .  68 


IN  preparing   this  handbook  on  the  layout  and 
equipment    of    playgrounds,    the    Playground 
and   Recreation   Association    of   America   has 
attempted  to  bring  together  the  information  which 
has  been  issued  in  pamphlets  and  other  publications, 
and  to  make  it  available  for  ready  use  in  one  hand- 
book. 

Stressing  the  subject  of  equipment  in  this  manner 
in  no  way  minimizes  the  importance  of  leadership. 
Apparatus  does  not  comprise  a  playground;  without 
leadership,  equipment  is  worse  than  useless.  When 
properly  used,  however,  it  stimulates  desirable  motor 
activities,  and  provides  channels  for  play  which  are 
exceedingly  valuable.  For  this  reason,  it  is  worthy 
of  careful  consideration. 


S 


CHAPTER  I 

General  Considerations 

OME  of  the  factors  having  to  do  with  the 
laying  out  and  equipping  of  a  playground  are 
as  follows: 


Location 

In  planning  the  location  of  a  playground  the 
question  of  the  future  development  of  the  neighbor- 
hood— whether  industrial  or  residential — should  be 
considered.  The  sections  in  which  there  is  the  most 
distinct  need  should  be  determined  and  also  the 
locations  which  can  be  most  easily  reached  by  the 
greatest  number  of  children  who  should  be  served  by 
playgrounds.  They  should,  many  feel,  be  provided 
within  a  quarter-mile  radius  of  the  homes  of  the 
younger  children.  Children  from  six  to  twelve  will 
go  as  far  as  half  a  mile  to  the  playground. 

Size 

The  size  of  the  playground  is  usually  determined 
by  the  amount  of  land  available,  the  cost,  and  the 
number  of  children  to  be  accommodated.  For  two 
hundred  and  fifty  children  under  ten  years  of  age, 
half  an  acre  will  do,  if  no  more  space  is  available — 

[Five} 


but  two  acrer,  is  much  .nore  desirable,  and  the  usual 
grounds  vary  between  these  two  limits.  Some  people 
feel  that  to  have  three  hundred  children  playing  at 
the  same  time  on  one  acre,  allowing  one  hundred 
forty  square  feet  per  child — a  space  about  twelve 
feet  square — represents  a  point  of  saturation. 

Many  communities  attempt  to  secure  numerous 
grounds  for  little  children — that  is,  one  in  each 
neighborhood,  sometimes  in  connection  with  schools. 

For  children  over  ten  years  of  age  the  grounds 
need  not  be  so  numerous,  but  must  be  larger.  From 
two  to  four  acres  is  the  minimum,  especially  if  base- 
ball is  to  be  played,  and  ten  to  twenty-acre  grounds, 
such  as  are  found  in  the  park  systems  of  Chicago 
are  most  desirable. 

Fencing  of  Grounds 

/  Fencing,  in  the  majority  of  cases,  ie  felt  to  be  a 
necessity.  /  It  limits  liability  for  accidents  since  un- 
der the  ruling  of  most  courts  if  the  gates  are  locked, 
authorities  are  not  held  responsible.  xlt  reduces 
problems  of  discipline  and  safeguards  the  ground 
and  apparatus.  /It  also  gives  individuality  to  the 
playground.  There  are  a  number  of  different  kinds 
of  fences  which  may  advantageously  be  provided— 
the  steel  picket  fence  with  steel  posts  set  in  concrete; 
the  woven-wire  fence  with  reinforced  concrete  or 
wooden  posts  and  a  top  and  bottom  rail  measuring 
from  six  to  eight  feet  in  length  between  posts,  and 
the  evergreen  hedge  of  privet  and  box  shrubs.  Play- 


ground  fences  average  between  four  and  eight  feet 
in  height.  The  appearance  of  any  fence  will  be 
greatly  improved  if  it  is  covered  with  honeysuckle, 
flowering  vines  or  rambler  roses. 

Surfacing 

The  problem  of  surfacing  is  one  which  causes  a 
great  deal  of  difficulty  and  gives  rise  to  much  dis- 
cussion. No  surfacing  has  as  yet  been  devised  which 
has  proved  itself  to  be  ideal  or  which  is  satisfactory 
for  every  ground.  Soil  conditions  in  the  various 
parts  of  the  country  are  important  factors  in  de- 
termining what  the  surface  must  be,  and  there  is  no 
guarantee  whatever  that  a  process  which  has  been 
successful  in  one  city  will  prove  satisfactory  in  an- 
other section  of  the  country. 

In  planning  surfacing  the  following  points  must 
be  considered:  suitability  for  use,  cost,  durability 
and  maintenance.  Playground  surfacing  should  be 
soft  and  porous,  yet  firm  enough  for  players  to  run 
and  romp  about  on  without  digging  holes  in  it  when 
it  is  wet,  and  raising  clouds  of  dust  when  it  is  dry. 

The  grading  of  a  playground  field  will  depend 
upon  .a  specific  problem.  If  the  field  is  going  to  be 
used  in  the  winter  time,  the  field  should  be  what  is 
known  as  a  depressed  field  with  a  low  point  in  the 
center  of  the  field  and  with  a  number  of  catch  basins 
to  catch  the  water,  these  catch  basins,  of  course, 
being  connected  with  sewers  or  drain  pipes.  The 
pitch  or  grade  should  not  be  less  than  six  inches  for 

[Seven} 


every  hundred  feet.  In  some  play  fields  the  prob- 
lems involved  may  make  it  more  advantageous  to 
have  the  center  of  the  field  the  high  point  and  the 
fall  toward  the  outside  of  the  play  field.  With  a 
grade  of  this  kind,  the  field  can  scarcely  be  used  for 
skating  purposes,  for  there  will  be  difficulty  in  flood- 
ing such  a  field. 

Very  frequently  play  fields  become  soft  and 
muddy  and  continue  for  some  few  days  in  this  con- 
dition because  of  inadequate  and  sluggish  drainage. 
Water  from  rainfall  must  not  stand  on  the  play 
fields  for  any  length  of  time,  and  therefore  adequate 
drainage  is  imperative.  The  drain  pipe  leading 
away  from  the  catch  basins  should  never  be  smaller 
than  six  inches  and  very  frequently  should  be  eight 
or  ten. 

Grass  makes  the  most  desirable  surfacing  for 
children's  play,  but  oftentimes  it  is  not  practicable. 
Various  types  of  early  and  late  maturing  grasses 
have  been  combined  for  golf  courses,  terraces  and 
much-used  lawn  surfacing  by  horticulturists.  By 
mixing  grasses  of  various  length  roots  a  deep  turf  is 
formed  and  the  grasses  coming  to  full  foliage  in 
rotation  keep  the  sward  green  throughout  the  season. 
A  list  of  grass  seed  dealers  may  be  secured  by  writ- 
ing to  the  Playground  and  Recreation  Association 
of  America,  1  Madison  Avenue,  New  York  City. 

Sometimes  oil  has  been  used  in  an  attempt  to 
produce  a  satisfactory  surface.  Cinder  has  also  been 
tried  but  is  not  generally  recommended.  Sandy 


loam  or  a  mixture  of  sand  and  clay  makes  a  satis- 
factory surface  in  some  sections.  This  requires 
sprinkling  with  water  in  dry  weather. 

The  types  of  surfacing  so  far  found  most  success- 
ful in  Philadelphia  and  Chicago  are  quoted  below: 

In  Philadelphia  "the  entire  plot,  with  such  excep- 
tions as  were  required  in  each  individual  case,  was 
graded  to  a  sub-grade  of  ten  inches  below  the 
finished  grade.  The  surface  so  made  was  carefully, 
although  not  accurately,  leveled  and  compacted  by 
rolling  with  a  steam-roller  of  not  less  than  five  tons 
in  weight.  After  the  soil  or  waste  material  resulting 
from  this  grading  was  disposed  of,  sufficient  cinders 
were  spread  over  the  surface  to  insure,  when  rolled 
with  a  heavy  roller,  a  thickness  of  seven  inches. 
The  cinders  were  thoroughly  wet  before  and  during 
the  rolling  process.  It  was  found  that  the  rolling 
could  be  done  in  one  layer.  To  this  surface  a  layer 
of  stone  screenings  was  added,  which,  having  been 
rolled  and  brought  to  the  surface  to  the  grades  given 
by  the  surveyor,  had  a  thickness  of  three  inches.  As 
in  the  case  of  the  cinders,  the  stone  screenings  must 
be  thoroughly  wet  before  and  during  rolling.  This 
plan,  recently  adopted  by  the  Philadelphia  authori- 
ties, will  eliminate  the  use  on  the  playground  sur- 
faces of  glutrin,  tasscoil  or  similar  artificial  dressings 
as  dust-layers,  and  will  rely  on  a  system  of  sprink- 
ling with  water  to  lay  the  dust.  In  order  to  make 
this  method  of  dust-laying  effective  the  playgrounds 
are  piped  and  arrangements  made  so  that  sprinkling 
may  be  done  whenever  necessary." 

[Nine] 


In  Chicago  excavation  was  carefully  made  with 
reference  to  character  of  subsoil  in  an  effort  to 
secure  good  drainage.  If  subsoil  of  sticky  clay  was 
discovered,  cinders  twelve  inches  deep  were  first 
applied  to  the  excavated  surface.  If  a  sandy  sub- 
soil was  discovered,  cinders  to  the  depth  of  only  four 
inches  were  needed.  The  cinders  were  then  rolled 
and  packed.  Upon  the  well-rolled  cinders  was 
placed  a  layer  of  stone  two  inches  deep,  the  stones 
measuring  from  one-half  to  one  and  one-quarter 
inches  in  diameter.  The  stone,  like  the  cinders,  was 
then  well  rolled. 

Upon  the  stone  was  placed  a  layer  of  yellow  clay 
with  a  sufficient  sand  content — about  33  per  cent — 
to  rub  off  somewhat  easily  when  thoroughly  dry; 
this  was  then  rolled  to  a  depth  of  about  two  inches 
and  torpedo  sand  spread  over  the  top.  Torpedo 
sand  is  a  name  for  crushed  granite  screenings  which 
have  passed  through  screens  to  a  size  of  one-six- 
teenth to  one-eighth  inch,  or  fine  gravel  the  same  size. 

Because  of  their  expense,  these  types  of  surfacing 
may  not  be  practicable  for  all  communities.  The 
method  given  below,  however,  is  described  by  one 
authority  as  being  within  the  reach  of  any  average 
city. 

If  the  sub-grade  is  handled  giving  the  pitch  de- 
sired for  the  finished  grade,  and  six  inches  of 
cinders  spread  over  the  entire  surface,  a  very  porous 
upper  surface  will  result,  which  in  itself  will  seek  to 
draw  moisture  from  the  upper  surface.  These 
cinders  should  be  rolled  with  a  roller  of  not  less  than 

[Ten] 


five  tons.  This  layer  of  cinders  should  be  covered 
with  a  three  or  four-inch  layer  of  clay  loam;  it  is 
usually  possible  to  find  this  particular  loam  in  every 
section.  It  has  more  sand  than  clay  in  its  composi- 
tion; it  somewhat  resembles  molders'  sand.  On  top 
of  this  can  be  spread  perhaps  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
of  screened  torpedo  sand.  In  the  initial  construction 
of  the  field,  an  adequate  amount  of  loam  is  very 
essential.  This  surface  may  be  treated  with  oil  or 
calcium  chloride  if  desired.  It  must  be  borne  in 
mind,  however,  that  if  lime  is  used,  calcium  chloride 
cannot  be  used;  either  the  oil  or  calcium  chloride 
acts  as  a  binder,  but  more  particularly  a  dust  layer. 
This  top  dressing  of  screened  torpedo  sand  is  some- 
thing which  must  be  handled  as  a  part  of  the  main- 
tenance, adding  a  part  every  now7  and  then,  depend- 
ing upon  the  amount  of  play  on  the  field.  If  it  is 
impossible  to  go  to  the  expense  of  sub-grading  and 
covering  the  field  with  six  inches  of  cinders,  grading 
alone  with  the  proper  treatment  of  screened  torpedo 
sand  will  give  a  good  surface  for  a  playground  if  the 
ground  is  of  the  right  texture. 

Beautifying  the  Grounds 

In  planning  playgrounds  for  children  the  element 
of  beauty  is  too  often  overlooked.  It  is  quite 
feasible  to  have  trees  and  flowers  which  will  add  to 
the  beauty  of  the  grounds  and  have  educational  and 
esthetic  values  for  the  children. 

If,  for  example,  the  entrance  to  the  ground  is  the 
beginning  of  a  path,  a  few  barberries  will  help  keep 

[Eleven] 


the  children  in  the  path  and  will  put  at  the  threshold 
of  the  playground  a  little  splash  of  color,  which,  with 
berry  and  leaf,  will  be  beautiful  all  the  year  round. 
Instead  of  posts,  it  will  be  possible  to  have  pyra- 
midal arbor-vitse  on  either  side  of  the  entrances,  or 
morning-glories  can  climb  a  fine-wire  netting  and  so 
form  an  arch  of  beauty  inviting  entrance  to  the 
ground. 

The  boundaries  of  the  plot  do  not  need  to  be  bare 
wall  or  fence.  As  has  been  suggested,  in  some 
instances  a  hedge  in  mixed  shrub  planting  can  take 
the  place  of  a  fence.  Disagreeable  boundaries,  such 
as  old  sheds,  may  be  screened  by  planting;  and  a 
bare  wall  can  be  quickly  clothed  with  Boston  Ivy 
(Ampelopsis  tricuspidata). 

Close  against  the  buildings  there  might  be  space 
for  some  bright  flowers — possibly  a  little  band  of 
formal  gardening  could  be  arranged  there.  It  is  not 
necessary,  however,  to  be  dependent  for  flowers 
upon  the  annuals  or  perennials  of  the  formal  garden. 
Among  the  shrubs  there  may  be  lilacs,  bridal  wreath, 
deutzia,  dogwood,  rhododendrons  and  azalias,  if 
they  will  grow,  and  roses,  sumac  and  hawthorn. 
Window-boxes  may  well  be  provided  in  connection 
with  the  buildings. 

Shade 

On  the  grounds  there  should  be  some  trees  to  add 
beauty  and  shade.  Shade  should  be  provided  most 
amply  for  the  little  children  and  for  the  older  girls 
who  are  unable  to  endure  the  direct  rays  of  the 

{Twelve] 


sun  as  the  boys  can.  Where  there  is  a  wading-pool 
there  may  be  a  pergola  on  one  side  or  end,  making  a 
shady  place  where  mothers  can  sit.  Boys  and  girls 
will  never  seek  the  hottest,  sunniest  place  in  town  to 
play,  and  the  shade  of  trees  will  add  greatly  to  the 
attractiveness  as  well  as  the  beauty  of  the  play- 
ground. 


[Thirteen] 


CHAPTER  II 

The  Laying  Out  of  the  Individual 
Playground 

BEFORE  discussing  the  problem  of  laying  out 
and  suitably  equipping  the  various  divisions 
of    the    individual    playground,    the    fact 
should  be  emphasized  that  the  most  important  ele- 
ment of  the  equipment  is  a  good  play-leader.    An 
active,  enthusiastic  leader  can  make  a  playground 
without  equipment  many  times  as  attractive  as  one 
having  costly  equipment  and  a  poor  leader  or  no 
/  leader  at  all.     Space,  cost  and  suitability  are  the 
factors  which  must  be  considered  in  choosing  ap- 
paratus.   It  is  not  necessary,  however,  to  buy  all  the 
apparatus  at  once.    It  is  far  better  to  provide  a  good 
leader  and  a  minimum  equipment  of  game  supplies 
at  the  outset  and  then  add  apparatus  from  season  to 
season.* 

/  The  relative  importance  of  the  various  pieces  of 
equipment  is  a  matter  which  has  been  much  dis- 
cussed. One  authority  suggests  the  following  order 
in  providing  equipment  for  a  playground:  1)  Wad- 


*The  community  athletic  kits  which  are  available  at  reasonable 
cost  from  the  A.  J.  Reach  Co.,  Philadelphia,  Pa.,  and  also  from 
A.  (',.  Spalding  and  Bros.,  Chicopee,  Mass.,  may  be  of  interest 
in  this  connection.  These  kits  contain  balls,  bats,  nets  and 
other  game  equipment,  packed  in  a  small  box  which  may  be 
easily  carried  from  place  to  place. 

[Fourteen] 


ing-pool  and  sand  court;  2)  Traveling  rings  for  both 
boys  and  girls,  and  for  boys  a  teeter  ladder,  climbing 
poles,  sliding  poles,  horizontal  bar,  horizontal 
ladder,  flying  rings;  3)  giant  strides;  4)  swings;  5) 
teeters;  6)  slide.  Another  authority  has  suggested 
that  in  the  development  of  a  playground,  swings, 
teeters  and  a  sand-box  be  supplied  the  first  year, 
adding  the  wading-pool,  shelter-house  and  drinking 
fountains,  if  possible;  for  the  second  year,  he  sug- 
gests slides  and  giant  strides  and  the  wading-pool, 
shelter-house  and  drinking  fountains,  if  they  have 
not  been  previously  provided;  and  for  the  third 
year's  purchase  he  recommends  the  outdoor  gym- 
nasium. Suggested  plans  for  laying  out  playgrounds 
may  be  found  in  the  appendix. 

The  Three-Part  Division 

The  best  division  of  playgrounds  is  felt  to  be  the 
so-called  three-part  division — one  part  for  boys  and 
^  girls  under  ten  years  of  age,  one  for  boys  over  ten, 
\  and  one  for  girls  over  ten.  A  row  of  good  shade 
trees  between  the  children's  and  the  girls'  play- 
ground is  suggested  as  a  suitable  line  of  demarcation 
between  the  two  sections.  It  is  possible  to  provide 
play  spaces  on  a  basis  of  attendance  records,  activi- 
ties and  ages.  As  a  general  rule  boys  require  a 
greater  amount  of  space  than  either  little  children 
or  girls  because  of  their  activities.  Small  children 
should,  in  all  probability,  be  considered  next,  as  they 
are  likely  to  come  to  the  playground  in  greater 
numbers  than  the  older  girls.  A  good  arrangement, 

[Fifteen} 


some  authorities  think,  is  to  give  one-half  of  the 
area  to  the  boys  and  the  other  half  to  the  older  girls 
and  small  children,  dividing  the  area  between  the 
small  children  and  girls  according  to  attendance 
records  and  the  development  of  activities  among 
the  older  girls. 

The  Small  Children's  Playground 

The  play  space  for  small  children  should  be  in 
some  secluded  corner,  out  of  the  way  of  stray  balls, 
where  the  children  will  not  be  disturbed  by  the 
older  ones.  Equipment  for  a  small  children's  play- 
ground generally  consists  of  sand-boxes,  swings, 
including  hammock  or  chair-swings  for  the  youngest 
children,  slides,  seesaws  and  a  wading-pool.  It  is 
best  to  have  the  sandboxes  in  the  shade  under  or 
around  a  tree  or  alongside  a  building.  Pails,  with 
eyes  for  handles  set  below  the  rim,  and  flat-handled, 
galvanized-iron  spoons,  to  be  used  as  shovels,  are 
valuable  additions  to  the  sandbox.  Blocks  are 
often  provided  in  connection  with  the  sand  play. 

Oftentimes  a  circular  wading-pool  is  surrounded 
by  a  sand  court  and  covered  with  a  pergola  extend- 
ing on  the  southern  semi-circle.  By  this  means, 
every  part  of  the  sand  court  is  exposed  to  sunlight 
at  some  hour  of  the  day.  Seats  should  be  provided 
under  the  pergola  for  mothers.  When  there  are  trees 
affording  sufficient  shade  the  pergola  may  be  dis- 
carded in  favor  of  a  pool  located  where  the  trees 
shade  the  sand  court.  If  there  are  no  trees,  shelters 
and  rolling  canvas  awnings  should  be  directly  over 

[Sixteen] 


the  sand  piles  and  equipment  for  quiet  games.  A 
separate  arbor  of  vines  in  the  form  of  a  playhouse 
and  quiet  hour  spot  is  suggested  as  a  valuable  addi- 
tion to  the  other  equipment.  Kudsu  is  probably  the 
most  rapidly-growing  vine,  though  Virginia  creeper 
grows  very  rapidly  and  is  hardy  nearly  everywhere. 
Swings  are  usually  placed  in  a  secluded  corner, 
which  is  sometimes  fenced  off,  thus  avoiding  the 
danger  of  children  being  hit  while  playing  games. 

Playground  for  Larger  Girls 

This  area  should  be  totally  enclosed  with  shrub- 
bery so  that  the  girls  may  feel  perfectly  secure  from 
any  sort  of  intrusion. 

The  usual  apparatus  selected  for  the  larger  girls' 
area  consists  of  swings,  see-saws,  slides,  giant  strides 
and  traveling-rings.  Some  authorities  add  to  the 
above  climbing-poles,  horizontal  bars  and  ladder, 
flying-rings,  jumping-standards  and  a  vaulting- 
horse.  Such  apparatus  is  helpful  in  muscle-building, 
but  should  be  used  under  the  direction  of  a  com- 
petent instructor.  In  addition  to  whatever  other 
apparatus  is  provided,  an  ample  supply  of  balls, 
bats,  nets,  goals,  quoits,  ring-toss  and  other  similar 
apparatus  for  games  and  plays  should  be  supplied. 

All  heavy  apparatus  should  be  arranged  along  the 
border,  leaving  the  center  for  group  and  team 
games,  folk-dancing  and  similar  activities.  If  the 
apparatus  is  placed  about  ten  feet  from  the  edge 
of  the  lot,  there  will  be  room  for  a  grass  border  and 
for  a  few  benches.  Swings  should  be  placed  far 

[Seventeen] 


enough  away  from  the  fence  so  that  the  children  will 
not  strike  it  when  swinging.  The  corner  is  one  of 
the  best  places  for  the  giant  stride,  as  it  is  then  out 
of  the  way  and  no  space  is  wasted. 

One  authority  suggests  providing  a  wooden  plat- 
form for  dancing  and  games.  It  should  occasionally 
be  treated  with  raw  linseed  oil  applied  hot.  A 
graphophone  for  teaching  folk  dancing  is  also  a 
desirable  asset. 

The  only  equipment  which  is  absolutely  necessary 
for  the  game  of  handball  is  a  fairly  high  wall  and  a 
ball.  The  side  of  a  building  will  do  for  the  wall. 
Oftentimes  a  flooring  of  white  pine,  well  supported 
by  beams  closely  laid,  is  provided.  This  game  is 
suitable  for  either  boys  or  girls  and  has  increased 
greatly  in  popularity  during  recent  years.  A  volley 
ball  court  should  be  laid  out  on  the  girls7  play- 
ground. Although  there  is  some  discussion  as  to  the 
value  of  the  game  of  basketball  for  girls,  where  there 
is  adequate  supervision  it  is  generally  felt  that  a 
basketball  court  should  also  be  provided.  The  long 
dimensions  of  such  courts  should  run  north  and 
south. 

The  volley  ball  court  should  be  outlined  by  dis- 
tinct lines  at  least  two  inches  wide.  The  maximum 
dimensions  are  sixty  feet  by  thirty  feet.  A  smaller 
court  is  permissible  and  desirable  for  young  players. 
Side  and  end  lines  must  be  three  feet  from  any 
obstruction.  A  net  two  feet  wide  is  stretched  taut 
across  the  center  with  the  upper  edge  seven  and  one- 
half  or  eight  feet  from  the  ground.  Special  fixtures 

[Eighteen] 


for  holding  the  net  and  combination  volley  ball  and 
tennis  posts  and  space  have  worked  well  in  some 
cases. 

The  line  game  of  basketball  is  not  as  strenuous 
as  the  regular  game  and  therefore  is  more  suitable 
for  girls. 

The  basketball  (line  game)  court  is  100  feet  by 
sixty  feet.  At  a  third  of  the  distance  from  each  end 
is  drawn  a  field  line  parallel  to  the  end  lines,  thus 
forming  the  home,  center  and  guard  sections.  If 
the  court  is  less  than  2,500  square  feet  in  area  it 
may  be  divided  in  two  equal  sections.  A  goal  is 
placed  in  the  center  of  each  end  line.  This  consists 
of  an  iron  ring  eighteen  inches  in  diameter,  to  which 
is  hung  a  net,  open  at  the  bottom,  the  rim  being  ten 
feet  above  the  ground.  If  the  basket  is  not  placed 
on  a  wall  or  building,  there  should  be  a  backstop 
six  feet  wide  and  four  feet  high  extending  three  feet 
above  the  basket  with  the  rim  of  the  basket  six 
inches  in  front  of  the  backstop.  The  free  throw  line  is 
drawn  fifteen  feet  in  front  of  each  goal  parallel  to 
the  end  line.  The  free  throw  lane  is  six  feet  wide 
and  is  formed  by  lines  starting  from  the  end  line 
three  feet  on  each  side  of  its  center  and  extending 
twelve  feet  toward  the  center  of  the  court.  At  the 
inner  ends  they  intersect  the  arc  of  a  circle  with  a 
six-foot  radius,  the  center  of  which  is  the  center  of 
the  free  throw  line.  The  center  circle  is  drawn  with 
a  one-foot  radius  in  the  exact  center  of  the  field. 

[Nineteen} 


Playground  for  the  Larger  Boys 

The  usual  apparatus  selected  for  the  boys'  area 
is  much  like  that  for  the  larger  girls,  consisting  of 
slides,  swings,  see-saws,  giant  strides  and  traveling 
rings,  and  such  apparatus  for  games  and  plays  as 
balls,  bats,  nets,  goals  and  quoits.  Besides  these, 
many  authorities  recommend  the  outdoor  gym- 
nasium, with  flying-rings,  climbing-ropes  and  poles, 
slanting  and  vertical  ladders  and  horizontal  bars, 
and  also  apparatus  to  supply  the  boys'  athletic 
needs,  such  as  vaulting  standards  and  poles,  high- 
jump  standards  and  crossbars,  shot-put  rings  and 
hurdles  to  be  used  upon  the  running  track.  Space 
and  money  will,  of  course,  determine  somewhat  the 
amount  of  such  equipment  which  can  be  provided. 

Above  all,  ample  room  should  be  left  for  group 
and  team  games.  The  arrangement  of  apparatus 
around  the  border  suggested  for  the  girls'  area 
applies  equally  well  to  the  boys',  leaving  room  for 
such  games  in  the  center.  Usually  there  is  sufficient 
space  for  laying  out  volleyball  and  basketball  courts. 
The  regular  basketball  court  is  much  like  that  for 
the  line  game  described  above.  The  ideal  size  court 
for  this  game  is  smaller,  however,  measuring  seventy 
feet  by  fifty  feet.  Sixty  feet  by  thirty-five  feet 
constitutes  the  minimum  size.  Many  playgrounds 
are  not  large  enough  to  allow  for  a  regulation  base- 
ball field,  but  if  only  younger  boys  are  to  use  it, 
a  diamond  with  sixty-foot  base-lines  may  be  laid 
out.  A  soft  ball  should  be  used  for  this  game,  in- 
stead of  the  regular  hard  baseball,  and  in  no  case 

[Twenty] 


should  activities  be  carried  on  in  line  with  a  batted 
ball.  If,  because  of  lack  of  space,  it  is  necessary  to 
play  basketball  or  volleyball  on  the  baseball  dia- 
mond, removable  posts  should  be  used.  In  this 
case  fixed  sockets  with  some  system  of  caps  should 
be  built  in  flush  with  the  ground  to  hold  the  posts 
upright. 

If  possible,  it  is  well  to  provide  a  jumping-pit  and 
a  straightaway  running-path,  fifty  to  100  yards  in 
length,  for  the  boys'  area. 

In  some  cases  it  is  possible  to  lay  out  an  athletic 
field  adjacent  to  the  playground,  providing  a  regula- 
tion baseball  diamond,  circular  running-track,  tennis 
courts  and  other  athletic  facilities.  Suggestions  for 
laying  out  such  fields  are  given  in  Chapter  V. 

Toilets 

Unless  the  playground  is  immediately  adjacent  to 
a  school  or  other  buildings  with  available  toilet  fa- 
cilities, toilet-rooms  should  be  provided.  These 
should  be  well  ventilated  and  of  perfectly  sanitary 
construction  and  equipment. 

Drinking  Water 

Drinking  water  should  be  supplied  by  means  of 
sanitary  drinking  fountains. 

Shelter  Buildings 

Shelter  buildings  of  pavilion-like  nature,  capable 
of  holding  many  people  in  time  of  sudden  rain- 

[Twenty-one] 


storms,  are  most  desirable.  These  buildings  may 
contain  offices  and  storerooms,  lockers,  toilets  and 
shower-baths  and  oftentimes  an  indoor  game-room. 
The  office  should  be  so  arranged  that  a  director 
whose  duties  call  him  to  the  office  may  still  keep 
an  eye  on  the  playground.  Buildings  are  most  ad- 
vantageously placed  on  the  dividing  line  between 
the  boys'  and  girls'  sections  or  in  the  corner  of  the 
ground,  thus  leaving  the  maximum  amount  of  space 
for  games. 

Accessories 

The  playground  should  be  provided  with  a  flag- 
pole which  will  fly  not  only  the  American  flag  but 
also  a  distinct  playground  flag.  Bulletin-boards 
should  be  placed  at  the  entrance  of  all  play  spaces, 
upon  which  may  be  placed  rules  and  announcements. 
A  first-aid  equipment  should  be  accessible  at  all 
times.  A  repair  kit  will  be  found  of  value  for  mend- 
ing balls.  In  some  cases  the  balls  and  equipment 
are  mended  through  the  organized  effort  of  the 
children  attending  the  playground.  In  large  areas 
water-taps  should  be  placed  at  regular  intervals,  so 
that  a  hose  may  be  attached  for  sprinkling  all  parts 
of  the  playground  in  dry  weather. 

Lighting 

To  secure  its  maximum  use,  the  playground 
should  be  well  lighted  at  night.  Electric  light  wires 
should  be  carried  underground,  as  those  carried  over- 
head interfere  with  activities  and  are  more  danger- 
ous. 

[Twenty-two] 


CHAPTER  III 

Discussion  of  Common  Types  of  Play- 
ground Apparatus  and  Suggestions 
for  Their  Use 

THE  following  material,  which  brings  together 
the  opinions  of  many  men  experienced  in 
playground  work,  in  regard  to  the  selection, 
care  and  use  of  various  pieces  of  apparatus,  will  be 
helpful  to  committees  and  Boards  which  contem- 
plate the  laying  out  and  equipping  of  playgrounds: 

The  Sand-Bin 

The  sand  bin,  sand  box  or  sand  garden,  as  it  is 
sometimes  called,  is  of  primary  importance  for  the 
small  children's  playground.  Good  dimensions  for 
this  bin  are  twelve  by  sixteen  or  twenty  feet,  with 
the  sand  bed  eighteen  inches  deep,  enclosed  on  four 
sides  by  either  cement  or  plank  walls  twelve  to 
fourteen  inches  high.  It  is  sometimes  made  collap- 
sible with  malleable-iron  side  and  corner  fittings. 
The  sand  should  not  be  placed  upon  a  clay  surface, 
but  upon  some  porous  surface,  so  that  water  may 
seep  through.  Excavation  made  to  a  three-foot  level 
and  filled  in  with  loose  cinders  will  provide  drainage 
when  the  sand  is  watered.  If  it  is  enclosed  in  a 

[Twenty-three] 


cement  court  with  a  cement  bottom,   a  drainage 
system    should   be    supplied.      Wherever    possible 
beach  sand  should  be  used,  and  every  effort  should 
be  made  to  keep  it  in,  not  only  a  sanitary  condition, 
but  a  condition  which  invites  sand  play  and  model- 
ing.    It   should  be  raked  thoroughly  every   day, 
turned  over  and  exposed  to  the  sun  and  air,  washed 
with  water  and  kept  moist,  so  that  it  will  pack  read- 
ily.   Sprinkling  with  a  thin  solution  of  bichloride  of 
mercury  will  insure  agains.t  fleas.    The  sand  should 
be  changed  at  least  twice  a  season.    Where  used  by 
large  numbers  of  children  it  should  be  changed  as 
often  as  once  a  month.    The  old  sand  can  usually  be 
used  to  advantage  under  the  apparatus  and  in  filling 
in  the  jumping-pit.    It  is  suggested  by  one  authority 
that  there  be  two  sets  of  sand  bins  used  alternately 
by  the  week.    When  one  set  is  in  use  the  other  may 
be  purified.    If  possible,  it  is  well  to  have,  besides 
^the  large  sand  pile,  a  number  of  smaller  ones,  say 
five  feet  by  five  feet,  which  can  be  given  to  individ- 
ual children  by  the  week,  day  or  hour.     One  sand 
pile  should  be  kept  dry  for  the  very  small  children 
who  like  to  bury  themselves  in  the  warm,  dry  sand. 
There  may  well  be  a  wide  board  or  plank  running 
around  the  top  for  use  as  a  seat  and  for  moulding 
the  sand. 

The  Wading-Pool 

Wading-pools  may  be  made  by  excavating  a  speci- 
fied area,  constructing  a  cement  basin  and  placing 
at  the  lowest  point  a  drain  that  may  be  opened  and 

[Twenty-four] 


closed  at  will.  At  the  same  point  bring  in  a  supply 
water  pipe,  letting  the  same  extend  a  little  higher 
than  the  grade  line  of  the  playground.  A  sand  trap 
is  necessary  to  prevent  the  clogging  of  drain  pipes. 
Such  pools  are  usually  circular  in  form,  about  forty 
or  fifty  feet  across  with  water  five  inches  deep  at  the 
edge  and  eighteen  inches  deep  in  the  centre.  The 
thickness  of  the  concrete  walls  will  depend  somewhat 
on  the  climate.  Southern  pools  need  no  more  than 
four  inches;  northern  climates  demand  heavier  con- 
struction and  reinforcement.  The  top  of  the  side 
walls  should  slope  outward  so  rain  and  drippings  will 
drain  away  from  the  pool.  Although  considerably 
used  the  circular  pool  is  apt  to  be  more  expensive 
than  the  straight-line  shape  because  of  the  difficulty 
in  making  concrete  forms.  A  hexagonal  pool  with 
three  south  faces  developed  with  sand-court  and 
pergola  is  suggested  as  having  all  the  advantages  of 
the  semi-circle  as  to  shade,  with  much  lower  cost  of 
construction. 

The  water  should  be  let  out  of  the  pool  every 
few  days  and  the  empty  pool  permitted  to  bake  in 
the  sun.  These  pools  should  be  used  only  for  paddl- 
ing and  wading  and  not  for  swimming. 

The  Slide 

The  slide,  which  is  now  found  universally  on 
children's  playgrounds,  consists  of  three  parts — the 
chute,  the  stairway  and  the  supporting  structure.  It 
is  felt  that  stairways  are  better  than  inclines  for 
slides  and  that  slides  should  be  constructed  in  one 


piece.  A  waist-high  railing  under  which  the  child 
swings  to  get  his  position  on  the  slide  prevents  acci- 
dents and  forces  users  to  the  proper  position  at  the 
start  of  their  descent.  Slides  may  be  built  of  either 
maple  or  steel.  If  maple  is  used — and  many  con- 
sider it  more  satisfactory — it  should  be  waxed 
occasionally.  The  maple  slats  should  be  slightly 
beveled  at  the  edges  and  be  set  about  one-sixteenth 
of  an  inch  apart  to  allow  rain  to  run  off  readily  and 
to  provide  for  the  expansion  of  the  wood  when  wet. 
Slides  of  steel  and  wood  may  be  purchased  in  various 
sizes.  The  slide  made  of  three-sixteenths  inch  steel 
is  suggested  as  giving  good  service.  A  slide  six  feet 
high  and  two  feet  broad  is  large  enough  for  the 
small  children.  A  ten-foot  slide  may  be  selected  for 
the  older  girls  and  a  twelve-foot  slide  for  the  older 
boys.  It  has  been  said  that  cost,  maintenance, 
safety,  order  and  service  argue  in  favor  of  the  low 
and  short  slide  in  preference  to  the  high  and  long 
one.  Children  should  not  be  allowed  to  slide  down 
in  a  standing  position  or  to  walk  or  crawl  up  the 
chute. 

The  Swing 

Hammock  swings  are  sometimes  provided  for 
babies  brought  to  the  playgrounds  by  their  mothers. 
Chair  swings  are  enjoyed  by  children  between  the 
ages  of  three  and  six.  The  older  children  should  not 
be  allowed  to  use  them. 

The  most  serviceable  swings  for  older  children  are 
those  having  steel  framework  or  a  frame  made  of 

[Twenty-six} 


ordinary  gas  pipe.  Three-inch  medium  pipe,  with 
three-and-one-half-inch  horizontals,  may  be  used, 
or  two-inch  uprights  and  two-and-one-half-inch 
horizontals,  if  extra-heavy  pipe  is  used.  The  up- 
rights should  be  set  four  feet  in  concrete.  Frames 
are  constructed  in  such  a  way  as  to  have  two  to 
eight  swings,  according  to  their  length. 

For  the  small  children's  playground  the  swings 
probably  ought  not  to  be  more  than  eight  or  ten 
feet  high.  About  three  and  one-half  feet  will  be 
required  for  each  swing.  For  the  older  boys  and 
girls  twelve  to  fourteen  feet  is  a  good  height.  Such 
swings  will  require -about  four  feet  each. 

Two  precautions  should  be  taken  in  building  or 
purchasing  swings.  The  collar  about  the  pipe, 
which  holds  the  rope  or  chain,  should  be  so  made 
that  it  will  grip  like  a  vise,  as  it  has  to  bear  the 
strain  of  the  swinging.  The  hook  that  holds  the 
chain  or  rope  should  be  made  of  tempered  steel, 
which  is  both  hard  and  tough,  in  order  to  prevent 
its  wearing  through.  The  friction  is  often  reduced 
considerably  by  having  the  swing  work  on  ball-bear- 
ings. All  hooks  and  rings  should  be  greased  once  a 
week  with  axle  grease. 

The  swings  may  be  suspended  by  rope  or  steel 
chain.  If  of  rope,  and  many  feel  this  to  be  better 
than  the  chain,  hemp  will  be  found  more  practicable 
than  manila,  which  must  be  shrunk  before  using. 
Russian  boat  rope  is  very  serviceable,  but  difficult 
to  secure  at  present.  The  steel  chain  generally 
chosen  is  that  with  links  about  a  foot  long.  Swings 

[Twenty-seven] 


with  ball-bearings  and  steel  links  may  be  chained  to 
the  uprights.  Rope  swings  are  usually  hung  on 
hooks  and  taken  in  at  night. 

The  swing  board  should  be  as  light  and  soft  as 
possible  and  only  a  little  longer  than  the  width  of 
the  child.  Hard  maple  or  soft  pine  may  be  used. 
A  board  seat,  without  projecting  bolts  and  nuts, 
with  the  edge,  front  and  back  covered  with  rubber 
hose  (screwed  on),  will  reduce  accidents  to  a  mini- 
mum. The  approved  method  of  attaching  the  board 
to  the  rope  or  chain  is  to  have  a  clamp  go  around 
it,  terminating  with  a  stirrup  strap  and  eyelet  of 
steel  in  which  the  rope  or  chain  is  fastened. 

To  prevent  holes  made  by  the  children's  feet 
underneath  the  swings  a  board  or  cement  floor  about 
three  feet  wide  is  sometimes  constructed.  Wood- 
block construction  has  also  been  used  for  this  pur- 
pose with  good  results.  To  avoid  accidents,  two 
children  should  not  be  allowed  to  occupy  one  swing- 
seat.  Pushing  and  running  under  the  swing  and 
pushing  by  holding  on  to  the  feet  of  those  who  are 
swinging  should  be  prohibited. 

The  See-Saw 

Everyone  is  familiar  with  the  see-saw  as  a  piece 
of  play  apparatus.  The  longer  the  see-saw  board 
and  the  lower  the  standard  the  safer  it  is.  See-saws 
are  often  constructed  with  safety  bumpers,  which 
keep  the  lower  end  six  or  eight  inches  off  the  ground 
and  help  to  prevent  any  squeezing  or  pinching  of 
limbs.  It  is  best  to  use  the  see-saws  with  handles 

[Twenty-eight] 


so  that  the  children  may  have  something  to  hold  on 
to.  It  is  suggested  that  by  making  one's  own  see- 
saw boards,  freight  may  be  saved  and  a  reserve 
replacement  supply  kept.  A  clause  may  be  included 
in  the  specifications  sent  to  manufacturers  for  bids, 
providing  that  only  necessary  hardware  and  fittings 
be  provided,  with  blue-prints,  specifying  type  of 
board  to  be  used.  Children  should  not  be  allowed 
to  stand  on  the  end  of  the  see-saw  or  to  work  it 
alone  from  the  middle. 

The  Giant  Stride 

The  giant  stride  consists  of  a  tall  pole,  its  total 
length  being  from  fourteen  to  twenty  feet.  It  is 
usually  made  of  steel  pipe  about  five  inches  in  dia- 
meter and  set  about  four  or  five  feet  in  concrete. 
The  head  is  set  on  the  top  of  this  pipe  with  ball- 
bearings, and  attached  to  this  revolving  head  are 
six  rope  or  chain  ladders  which  have  three  or  four 
short  rungs.  The  rope  ladder  is  more  pleasant  to 
hold  on  to,  but  the  steel  ladder  lasts  longer.  If  steel 
ladders  are  used,  filling  the  upright  pipe  with  ma- 
terial to  deaden  the  sound  of  the  chain  knocking 
against  it  is  a  great  improvement.  The  most  com- 
mon method  of  locking  the  stride  is  to  chain  the 
ladders  to  the  post.  Children  should  not  be  allowed 
to  push  anyone  around,  take  a  twist  or  tie  the  ropes 
together.  They  should  be  taught,  also,  to  dodge  out 
of  the  way  as  soon  as  they  drop  off  the  stride  to 
prevent  their  being  hit. 

[Twenty-nine] 


Athletic  Equipment 

A  hard  baseball  cannot  be  used  on  an  ordinary 
playground  where  other  games  must  necessarily  be 
carried  on  at  the  same  time.  The  handball,  volley- 
ball, indoor  baseball  and  the  outer-seam  soccer  ball 
are  probably  the  only  types  of  balls  necessary  for 
the  games  generally  played  on  the  playground.  The 
soccer  ball  may  be  used  for  basketball,  football, 
dodgeball  and  captainball. 

For  prolonging  the  life  of  certain  types  of  athletic 
equipment  the  following  suggestions  are  given: 

Inflated  Balls — Find  the  spot  where  the  ball  has 
been  sealed,  which  is  usually  a  hard  piece  of  rubber 
on  the  inside  and  can  be  found  by  rjinching  the  ball. 
By  inserting  a  hypodermic  needle  into  the  end  of  an 
air  bulb  and  forcing  the  needle  through  this  rubber, 
which  the  manufacturer  has  used  to  seal  the  ball, 
enough  air  can  be  forced  into  the  ball  to  make  it 
better  than  new.  After  removing  the  needle,  pinch 
the  rubber  seal  together,  which  again  seals  the  hole 
made  by  the  needle.  In  this  way  balls  may  be  made 
to  serve  until  the  rubber  cracks  or  splits.  Rubber 
balls  mav  be  treated  in  this  manner. 

Basketballs,  Soccerballs  and  Volleyballs — When 
a  new  basketball,  soccerball  or  volleyball  begins  to 
.  rip  in  the  seams  have  a  harness-man  handsew  the 
entire  ball.  Use  waxed  linen  cords  for  this.  It  may 
be  done  with  either  the  outside  or  inner  seam  ball. 
After  a  ball  gives  way  at  one  point  it  is  not  long 
before  it  gives  way  at  another,  and  in  the  end  more 

[Thirty] 


is  spent  than  it  costs  to  have  it  all  handsewed  when 
the  first  rip  appears.  The  length  of  life  of  such 
balls  can  be  considerably  prolonged  by  treating  the 
cover  with  Neatsfoot  oil  before  putting  in  use,  or 
whenever  the  leather  shows  signs  of  chafing  or  drying 
out.  One  authority  gives  the  following  suggestions 
for  lacing  balls: 

Ball  Laces — Many  leather  laces  are  ruined  be- 
cause they  are  not  properly  laced  into  the  ball  when 
new.  Never  tie  knots  in  a  leather  lace.  Before 
inserting  the  lace  into  the  ball  cut  a  slit  in  the  wide 
end  of  the  lace  just  long  enough  to  pass  the  other 
end  through.  Lace  through  the  end  hole,  so  that 
this  slit  comes  underneath  the  flap.  Then  pass  the 
needle  end  of  the  lace  through  this  slit  and  pull 
tight.  This  method  insures  a  proper  start  for  lacing 
the  ball,  and  also  will  never  pull  out  as  a  knot  will, 
and  cannot  slip  through  the  eyelet.  Such  a  lace 
can  easily  be  removed  at  will.  Round  shoelaces 
answer  as  a  lace  for  canvas  basketballs  and  volley- 
balls.  Belt-lacings  split  into  the  proper  widths  and 
lengths  are  the  best  for  basketballs  and  soccer  foot- 
balls. 

Jump- Ropes— The  life  of  a  jump-rope  can  be 
prolonged  by  winding  the  center  or  part  that  touches 
the  ground  with  tire  tape.  This  also  makes  the 
rope  turn  easier,  as  it  adds  weight  to  the  center. 

Hockey-Sticks — Sticks  can  be  made  to  last  a  good 
deal  longer  by  winding  the  neck  with  tire  tape. 
Splintering  reduces  the  length  of  life  of  the  stick. 

[Thirty-one]  \ 


Indoor  Baseball  Bats — In  some  cases,  where  the 
throwing  of  a  bat  after  having  hit  the  ball  is  not 
only  dangerous  but  noisy,  it  has  been  found  practical 
to  turn  down  the  ends  of  the  bat  so  that  a  large  size 
rubber  crutch  tip  can  be  forced  on.  This  prevents 
the  bat  from  slipping  out  of  the  hand.  The  handle 
of  the  bat  should  be  covered  with  tire  tape. 

Contracts  for  Purchasing  Apparatus 

In  securing  quotations  from  manufacturers,  bid 
forms  are  of  value.  A  suggested  form  is  given  in  the 
appendix. 

It  is  best  to  always  make  use  of  a  carefully  pre- 
pared contract  in  purchasing  apparatus.  This 
should  contain  the  following  items: 

1.  When  and  where  delivery  shall  be  made  and 
who  is  to  pay  for  same. 

2.  The  erection  and  connecting  of  all  parts  of  the 
apparatus  after  it  has  been  delivered. 

3.  If  cement  is  used  as  a  foundation  or  anchorage 
for  apparatus,  let  the  contract  state  who  is  to  be 
responsible  for  the  excavation  and  cement  work. 

4.  Insert  a  clause  to  cover  extra  or  incidental 
expenses. 

5.  Do  not  fail  to  include  a  clause  that  will  safe- 
guard you  or  your  community  against  troubles  with 
labor  unions. 

6.  Let  there  be  a  clause  of  guaranty  on  the  part 
of    the    manufacturer    against    defective    material, 
faulty  construction  and  workmanship.     Make  this 
guaranty  cover  a  period  c  f  at  least  three  years. 

[Thirty-two] 


A  list  of  manufacturers  of  playground  apparatus, 
athletic  equipment  and  supplies  may  be  secured 
from  the  Playground  and  Recreation  Association  of 
America,  1  Madison  avenue,  New  York  City. 

Organizing  Volunteers 

It  is  suggested  that  however  elaborate  the  equip- 
ment, or  ample  the  funds,  all  playground  apparatus 
should  be  installed  with  an  instructor  on  the  job, 
enlisting  local  boys  in  helping  in  its  placement  and 
the  labor  of  getting  it  into  condition  for  use.  This 
voluntary  service  offers  opportunity  for  the  instruc- 
tor to  get  acquainted,  and  gives  the  boys  a  sense  of 
proprietary  interest  in  the  result.  It  short-cuts  the 
long  and  tedious  development  of  a  sense  of  owner- 
ship, and  of  belonging,  by  weeks  and  probably 
months  of  painstaking  effort. 

It  is  well,  also,  to  co-operate  closely  with  the 
manual  training  classes  of  local  high  schools,  enlist- 
ing them  in  the  making  of  benches,  wands,  dumb- 
bells and  wooden  blocks  for  the  small  children's  use. 
These  possibilities  have  been  too  largely  overlooked, 
due  more  to  oversight  than  intention. 


[Thirty-three] 


CHAPTER  IV 
Home  Made  Apparatus 

BECAUSE  of  the  great  use  to  which  it  is  put 
in  large  cities  and  the  pains  which  must  be 
taken  for  safety  and  freedom  from  vulnerable 
points  for  lawsuits,  playground  apparatus  is  usually 
purchased  under  contract  from  manufacturers.  In 
small  towns  or  rural  districts,  however,  it  is  often 
made  on  the  ground  by  a  local  carpenter.  Some- 
times the  children  in  schools  or  other  institutions 
having  a  manual-training  department  construct  the 
equipment  for  their  own  playground  as  a  part  of 
their  work. 

In  the  construction  of  all  apparatus,  however, 
special  attention  must  be  given  to  the  friction  points 
and  all  such  apparatus  as  swings,  flying-rings  and 
traveling-  rings  should  have  special  bearings  at  these 
points.  Those  building  their  own  apparatus  may  be 
interested  to  know  that  the  Narragansett  Machine 
Co.  manufacturers  a  " rocker-bearing"  the  A.  G. 
Spalding  and  Bros,  a  ball-bearing  device  and  W.  S. 
Tothill  a  bearing  of  hard  maple  revolving  or  slid- 
ing over  an  iron  rod,  all  of  which  give  good  service. 

[Thirty-four] 


Baby  or  Chair-Swings 

The  following  suggestions  are  given  by  one  play- 
ground authority  for  constructing  baby  or  chair- 
swings:  Make  two  long  saw-horses  about  six  and 
one-half  or  seven  feet  high,  underneath  measurement, 
with  a  wide  spread  at  the  base.  Hang  five  chair- 
swings  on  each  horse.  Each  swing  is  a  foot  square 
and  one  and  one-half  feet  from  the  next  swing. 
Then  put  two  horses  side  by  side  just  far  enough 
apart  so  that  when  opposite  swings  are  flying  they 
cannot  touch  one  another.  Run  cross-pieces  over 
the  tops  of  these  saw-horses  and  cover  \vith  canvas 
or  cheap  unbleached  muslin.  Of  course,  have  this 
roof  project  a  little  beyond  the  saw-horses  to  keep 
the  sun  from  striking  under.  Sash-cord  is  strong 
enough  for  the  ropes.  Hooks  that  screw  in  answer 
for  the  top,  with  horse-rings  to  hang  the  ropes  to. 
Four  pieces,  one  foot  by  one  inch  by  two  inches, 
form  the  railings,  which  are  hung  on  ropes  the  right 
height  above  the  one-foot-square  seat.  The  whole 
thing  is  too  small  for  big  people  to  get  into,  and  is 
easily  taken  in  at  night  without  a  ladder.  It  is  so 
cheap  that  you  can  have  twenty  or  thirty,  and  they 
can  be  easily  covered  with  canvas.  The  sides  of  the 
saw-horses  also  project  so  that  it  often  warns  care- 
less little  people,  coming  from  the  sides,  against 
running  in  front  of  the  swings. 

The  specifications  and  plans  given  below  for  the 
construction  of  various  types  of  home-made  appa- 
ratus were  prepared  by  Community  Service  (Incor- 
porated), 315  Fourth  avenue,  New  York  City. 

[Thirty- five] 


The  Sand  Box  (See  page  37  for  diagram) 

To  build  a  sand  box,  dig  a  place  nine  feet  long  and  six 
feet  wide  for  the  underlying  bed  of  cinders  three  feet  deep. 
Get  four  boards,  each  a  foot  high  and  two  inches  thick  to 
make  the  bin,  and  fasten  them  together  at  the  corners  with 
angle  irons  from  the  hardware  store.  Next,  make  a  cover 
— in  one  piece,  or,  if  sliding  it  off  and  on  seems  too  labor- 
ious, in  four.  To  provide  a  four-piece  cover,  make  each 
section  six  feet  long  and  two  feet  three  inches  wide,  with 
cross  boards  two  feet  three  inches  long  by  half  an  inch 
thick  and  three  inches  wide  for  each  end  so  that  the  sec- 
tions will  fil  the  box  firmly.  This  much  accomplished, 
nail  a  wide  board  around  the  top  of  the  box  or  at  one  end, 
to  be  used  as  a  seat  or  a  counter.  Then  put  in  the  cinders 
and  the  sand.  With  the  cinders  underneath  to  provide  drain- 
age, you  can  wash  the  sand  as  frequently  as  you  choose.  The 
same  drainage  removes  dampness  after  rain.  The  sand  must 
not  get  too  dry,  far  down,  or  it  is  useless  for  play.  Always 
keep  it  somewhat  damp  down  below.  And  if  fleas  appear, 
souse  it  with  a  weak  solution  of  bichloride  of  mercury. 

SAND  BOX 


No.  of 

Thick- 

Pieces 

Length 

Width 

ness 

Material 

2 

9' 

12" 

2" 

Wood 

2 

6' 

12" 

2" 

Wood 

4 

6' 

2'  3" 

¥4" 

Sections   of 

wood 

8 

2'  3" 

3" 

y*" 

Wood 

8 

5" 

1" 

w 

Iron   braces 

[Thirty-si.r] 


i 


[Thirty-seven] 


The  Swing  and  Climbing  Rope  (See  page  40  for  diagram) 

Dig  two  holes  four  feet  deep  and  four  feet  apart  from 
center  to  center.  Take  two  pieces  of  wrought  iron  pipe, 
sixteen  feet  long  and  three  inches  in  diameter,  and  set  them 
upright  in  the  holes,  with  care  to  leave  a  space  of  four 
feet — no  more,  no  less — between  them.  Then  fasten  a  cross- 
bar of  wrought  iron  pipe  to  the  upright — to  be  specific,  a 
cross-bar  six  feet  long  and  three  inches  in  diameter,  which 
you  make  secure  to  the  uprights  with  pipe-fittings  or  with  a 
special  tee  and  elbow  fitted  with  set  screws  furnished  by  a 
manufacturer  of  playground  apparatus.  Measuring  ac- 
curately, fasten  to  the  cross-bar  a  pair  of  strong,  tempered 
steel  hooks,  thirty  inches  apart  and  equidistant  from  the 
uprights,  to  hold  the  swing.  'Mix  a  shovelful  of  cement  with 
two  shovelfuls  of  sand  and  four  shovelfuls  of  gravel,  and 
enough  water  to  make  a  thin  mixture.  Pour  it  into  the 
holes  to  solidify  completely  in  forty-eight  hours,  at  the 
end  of  which  time  attach  the  rope  and  seat.  To  make  the 
seat,  take  a  board  two  feet  long,  eight  inches  wide  and  an 
inch  and  a  half  thick,  and  on  its  under  side  nail  at  each 
end  (by  way  of  guarding  against  cracking  or  warping)  a 
piece  of  wood  eight  inches  long,  five  inches  wide,  and  an 
inch  thick.  At  each  end  of  the  seat,  bore  a  hole  through 
the  two  thicknesses  of  wood,  and  through  the  holes  slip  a 
rope  an  inch  in  diameter.  At  the  ends  of  the  rope  splice 
tempered  steel  rings,  and  fasten  to  the  cross-bar  by  iron 
hooks.  Provide  length  of  rope  of  about  twenty-one  feet 
after  splicing. 

If  you  prefer  the  underground  braces  shown  in  the  dia- 
gram printed  herewith  rather  than  the  concrete  bed,  secure 
six  pieces  of  wood,  three  for  each  brace,  each  piece  of  wood 

[Thirty-eight} 


measuring  four  and  a  half  feet  long  by  five  inches  wide  and 
five  inches  thick.  With  these  pieces  of  wood,  make  a  pair 
of  triangles  and  put  the  pipe  up  the  middle  of  each  triangle 
through  its  apex.  A  carriage  bolt  fifteen  inches  long  and 
half  an  inch  through  will  hold  the  pipe  firm  at  the  top.  Also 
make  it  firm  at  the  bottom.  Pack  down  the  earth  firmly 
around  the  pipes  and  braces. 

If  you  would  like  to  add  a  climbing  rope,  bore  a  hole  at 
the  projecting  end  of  the  cross-bar  and  insert  an  eye-bolt, 
and  into  the  eye-bolt  splice  a  rope  thirteen  feet  long  and  an 
inch  and  half  thick.  It  may  hang  loose,  knotted  at  the 
bottom,  or,  if  you  like,  you  can  fasten  it  to  an  iron  ring 
set  in  concrete. 

SWING   AND   CLIMBING    ROPE 

No.   of                                          Thick- 
Pieces  Length  Width         ness  Material 

2  16'  3"         Diameter  Wrought  iron  pipe 

1  6  '6"  3"         Diameter  Wrought  iron  pipe 

1  2'  8"         1Y4"  Wood 

2  8"  5"  11A"  Wood 
6  4'  6"  5"  5"  Wood 
1  23"  1"  Diameter  Rope 
1  12"  l%"  Diameter  Rope 

2  iron  collars  with  eight  screws  1  eye  bolt 

1  carriage  bolt  15"  long,    y?"  diameter         2  steel  hooks 
1   iron   ring  attached  to   iron  base  2  steel  rings 


[Thirty-nine] 


[Forty] 


The  Teeter  Board  (See  page  42  for  diagram) 

In  making  a  teeter-board,  think  first  of  the  foundations. 
After  digging  two  holes,  three  feet  deep  and  about  ten 
inches  square  and  a  foot  and  a  half  apart  from  center  to 
center,  make  ready  a  preparation  of  cement  by  taking  a 
shovelful  of  Portland  cement,  two  shovelfuls  of  sand,  and 
four  shovelfuls  of  gravel,  and  mix  with  water.  Pour  a  little 
of  the  mixture  into  the  holes.  Then  in  each  hole  plant  a 
wooden  upright  five  inches  square  and  five  and  a  half  feet 
tall,  with  two-inch  holes  bored  through  it  four  inches  from 
the  top.  A  lot  depends  on  the  care  with  which  the  wooden 
uprights  are  put  in  place.  They  must  be  exactly  plumb, 
and  the  two-inch  holes  bored  through  them  near  the  top 
must  exactly  face  each  other,  as  through  those  two-inch 
holes  a  galvanized  pipe  is  to  go.  More  specifically  a  pipe 
two  feet  and  two  inches  long  and  two  inches  thick,  with  a 
hole  bored  near  each  end.  Again  to  be  specific,  a  hole 
three-eighths  of  an  inch  across  and  bored  where  it  will  leave 
a  spare  inch  of  pipe  beyond  it.  Pass  an  ox-bow  pin  through 
each  of  these  holes  in  the  pipe  to  keep  it  firmly  in  place. 
Pour  in  the  cement  to  make  a  solid  mass  around  the  foot 
of  each  upright.  The  next  problem  is  the  teeter  board  itself. 
The  board  must  be  fourteen  feet  long,  ten  inches  wide,  and 
two,  inches  thick.  On  its  underside  and  at  each  end,  nail  a 
shock-absorber — a  piece  of  wood  six  inches  wide  and  of  the 
same  thickness  as  the  board,  and  having  a  length  equal  to  the 
board's  width.  Provide  a  pair  of  cross-pieces — strips  of  wood 
ten  inches  long  and  two  inches  square — for  the  underside 
of  the  board  near  its  middle.  Nail  them  on,  each  placed  an 
inch  and  a  quarter  from  the  exact  middle  of  the  board. 
When  the  concrete  has  hardened  completely,  put  the  board 
into  position  on  the  galvanized  pipe.  The  cross-pieces, 
with  a  gap  of  two  and  a  half  inches  between  them  let  the 
pipe  through  to  a  nicety.  If  the  board  is  not  to  be  taken 
indoors  at  nightfall,  screw  a  piece  of  sheet  iron  a  foot  .and 
a  half  long,  ten  inches  wide  and  an  eighth  of  an  inch 
thick  into  the  under  side  of  board  across  the  pipe  and  cross- 
pieces.  This  will  effectually  prevent  slipping. 
TEETER  BOARD 


No.  of 

Thick- 

Pieces 

Lengtk 

Width 

ness 

Material 

1 

14' 

10" 

2" 

Wood 

2 

5'  6" 

5" 

5" 

Wood 

2 

10" 

6" 

2" 

Wood 

2 

10" 

2" 

2" 

Wood 

1 

2'  2" 

2" 

Diameter 

Gal.  iron 

pipe 

1 

18" 

10" 

Ji" 

Sheet  iron 

2  Ox-bow  pins 

[Forty-one] 

Co 

I 


The  Slide  (See  page  45  for  diagram) 

Select  four  pieces  of  wood,  each  five  feet  and  seven  inches 
long,  six  inches  wide  and  four  inches  thick,  to  use  as  sup- 
ports at  the  high  end  of  the  slide.  Fit  two  of  the  four  pieces 
together  firmly  at  the  top,  placing  their  lower  ends  four 
feet  apart  so  as  to  form  a  triangle  with  thr  ground  as  the 
base.  With  the  other  two  pieces  do  the  same.  Next,  provide 
for  each  triangle  a  rung  two  feet  and  seven  inches  long  by 
three  inches  wide  and  an  inch  thick,  and  nail  it  on  about 
fourteen  inches  above  the  ground.  When  finished  set  the 
braces  parallel  to  each  other  a  foot  and  ten  inches  apart. 
Across  the  top — from  the  tip  of  one  triangle  to  the  tip  of 
its  mate — nail  a  hard-wood  board  two  inches  wide  and  an 
inch  thick.  Now  for  the  front  supports.  Both  are  to  be 
triangular.  Choose  for  each  of  them  a  board  sixteen  inches 
long  by  three  inches  wide  and  an  inch  thick  and  then  two 
additional  boards  twelve  inches  long  by  three  inches  wide 
and  an  inch  thick.  With  these  make  a  pair  of  right  tri- 
angles, *set  parallel  to  each  other  a  foot  and  ten  inches 
apart,  with  the  right  angles  toward  the  front  or  low  end, 
and  so  placed  as  to  leave  a  space  of  seven  feet  and  a  half 
between  the  front  of  the  back  braces  and  the  back  of  the 
front  braces. 

For  the  chute  itself  get  seven  maple  boards,  the  hardest 
obtainable,  measuring  eleven  and  a  half  feet  long  by  three 
inches  broad  and  half  an  inch  thick.  Prepare  them  care- 
fully, with  special  attention  to  the  grain,  which  must  run 
down.  In  fastening  them  on — placed  lengthwise,  and 
leaving  cracks  a  sixteenth  of  an  inch  wide — use  dowel  pins. 
On  the  bottom,  a  few  inches  from  the  end,  screw  a  cleat 
a  foot  and  ten  inches  long  by  two  inches  wide  and  an 
inch  thick.  Two  additional  cleats  of  the  same  dimensions 
are  needed;  one  goes  on  at  the  lower  end,  the  other  half- 
way up  the  slide. 

Now  bend  back  the  top  of  the  slide  a  little,  a  short  way 
from  the  end,  so  that  it  will  fit  over  the  cross  piece  which 

[Forty-three] 


connects  the  braces.  In  order  to  bend  the  maple  easily, 
either  steam  it  or  saw  the  wood  half  through  underneath 
the  part  to  be  bent.  Then  fasten  it  firmly  with  screws. 
Also  bend  back  the  slide  at  the  bottom,  about  two  feet 
and  five  inches  from  the  end,  so  that  the  cleat  will  rest 
across  the  top  of  the  small  braces,  and  make  it  fast  with 
screws.  Build  the  sides  of  the  slide  out  of  boards  eleven 
and  a  half  feet  long,  four  inches  wide  and  an  inch  thick, 
bending  or  fashioning  them  at  both  top  and  bottom  to 
suit  the  bend  in  the  slide,  and  nailing  them  to  the  top  and 
bottom  braces.  Round  them  carefully  where  the  children's 
hands  rub  along. 

Finally,  provide  for  the  steps  and  handrail  up  the  back 
of  the  top  brace,  making  eight  wooden  steps  at  intervals  of 
six  inches  and  measuring  a  foot  and  ten  inches  long  by  six 
inches  wide  and  an  inch  thick,  while  the  handrail  consists 
of  a  galvanized  iron  pipe,  nine  feet  tall  and  an  inch  and  a 
quarter  thick;  bent  into  the  proper  shape  and  attached  with 
short  braces  as  the  diagram  shows. 

•     SLIDE 


No.  of 
Pieces 

Length 

Width 

Thick- 
ness 

Material 

4 

5'  7" 

6" 

4" 

Wood 

2 

2'  7" 

3" 

1" 

Wood 

2 

2'  1" 

3" 

1" 

Wood 

4 

12" 

3" 

1" 

Wood 

2 

16" 

3" 

1" 

Wood 

4 

r  10" 

2" 

1" 

Wood 

7 

11'  6" 

3" 

w 

Wood 

2 

9' 

154" 

Diameter 

Gal.  iron  pipe 

8 

1'  10" 

6" 

1" 

Wood 

[Forty-four] 


[Forty-five] 


The  Horizontal  Bar  (See  page  47  for  diagram) 

Provide  yourself  with  a  galvanized  iron  pipe  six  feet 
long  and  an  inch  and  a  quarter  thick.  Also,  provide  two 
posts— of  strong  wood— ten  feet  tall  by  four  inches  square. 
At  points  two  inches  from  each  end  of  the  galvanized  iron 
bar,  drill  holes  five-eighths  of  an  inch  across.  Then,  six 
inches  below  the  top  of  each  post,  bore  a  hole  an  inch  and 
a  quarter  across.  After  that  has  been  accomplished,  bore  a 
new  hole  intersecting  this  at  right  angles  (the  two  holes 
must  cross  in  the  center  without  unevenness)  and  measuring 
a  half-inch  in  diameter. 

After  making  sure  that  the  bar  and  posts  comply  with 
the  regulations,  dig  two  pits,  three  feet  deep  and  about  ten 
inches  square  and  far  enough  apart  so  that  the  space  be- 
tween posts  will  measure  exactly  five  feet  and  four  inches. 

Into  these  pits  spill  six  inches  of  concrete,  made  by  taking 
a  shovelful  of  Portland  cement,  two  shovelfuls  of  sand,  and 
four  shovelfuls  of  gravel,  and  mixing  with  water.  Then, 
set  the  posts  upright  in  the  pits,  careful  to  have  them  the 
stipulated  five  feet  and  four  inches  apart  and  to  have 
the  large  holes  near  their  tops  exactly  facing  each  other 
and — still  more  important,  if  anything — to  have  these  large 
holes  at  exactly  the  same  height  from  the  level  ground,  as 
otherwise  the  bar  will  not  be  horizontal. 

Now  slip  the  bar  through  the  two  large  holes.  As  soon 
as  it  is  in  place,  secure  it  by  poking  carriage  bolts  through 
the  small  holes  in  the  posts.  A  carriage  bolt  four  and  a  half 
inches  long  and  half  an  inch  thick  is  the  right  size.  The 
bolts  not  only  go  through  the  posts,  but  also  through  the 
bar  itself.  Pour  in  the  concrete  to  fill  the  space  around 
the  posts.  Give  the  concrete  two  full  days  to  harden. 

If  you  prefer  use  bricks  and  stones  at  top  and  bottom 
of  the  pits  to  brace  the  posts,  instead  of  concrete,  only,  in 
that  case  you  must  stamp  the  ground  down  firmly  around 
them. 

After  the  posts  and  bar  are  securely  set,  you  can  improve 
on  perfection  by  drilling  additional  holes  in 'the  posts,  at 
intervals  of  six  inches,  to  within  four  feet  of  the  ground. 
That  makes  the  bar  adjustable  ta  various  heights,  so  that 
the  smaller  small  boys  can  perform  on  it  and  the  big  ones 

vault   it. 

HORIZONTAL   BAR 
No.  of  Thick- 

Pieces       Length       Width         ness       Material 
2  10'  4"  4"  Wood 

1  6'  1^4"     Outside         Gal.  iron  pipe 

Diameter 

2  4J^"          l/2"     Diameter         Carriage  bolts 

[Forty-six] 


[Forty-seven] 


The  specifications  given  below  for  making  a  giant 
stride  were  published  in  a  rural  recreation  manual, 
"Neighborhood  Play"  published  by  The  Youth's 
Companion  in  co-operation  with  the  United  States 
Bureau  of  Education. 

Giant  Stride 

The  basis  for  a  cheaply  and  easily  constructed  giant  stride 
is  an  old  wagon  wheel  and  a  pole  eighteen  feet  long  and 
five  inches  in  diameter  at  the  small  end.  In  almost  any 
village  the  wheel  can  be  had  for  the  asking,  and  the  pole 
probably  can  be  cut  in  the  woods. 

If  you  use  a  wheel  with  a  wooden  axle  stub,  remove 
the  axle  from  the  skein,  which  is  the  "tapering  metal  sleeve 
surrounding  a  wooden  axle  spindle  to  protect  it  from  wear." 
Shape  the  top  of  the  pole  to  fit  into  the  axle  skein,  and 
fasten  the  skein  securely  in  place. 

If  you  use  a  wheel  with  a  metal  axle,  cut  off  the  axle 
about  a  foot  from  the  hub,  and  sharpen  it  to  a  point. 
Here  is  where  you  may  have  to  call  upon  the  blacksmith. 
Cut  off  the  spokes  four  inches  from  the  hub.  Into  the 
middle  of  the  small  end  of  the  pole  bore  a  two-inch  hole 
about  six  inches  deep,  and  drive  the  axle  into  it.  If  the 
blacksmith  is  helping  you,  have  him  shrink  an  iron  collar  on 
the  end  of  the  pole,  to  keep  it  from  splitting.  It  is  well  to 
use  an  all-metal  wheel  and  axle. 

Cut  sixty  feet  of  one-inch  Manila  rope  into  four  equal 
pieces.  With  copper  wire,  or  by  splicing,  attach  the  ropes 
to  the  hub.  Knot  them  at  the  bottom,  and  about  every  two 
feet  for  the  lower  eight  feet.  After  it  has  been  hung  in  the 
sun  and  rain  until  it  has  stretched  as  much  as  it  will,  apply 
a  thin  solution  of  pine  tar  to  preserve  it. 

Set  the  pole  in  concrete,  four  feet  in  the  ground.  At  that 
height,  the  lower  knot  of  the  rope  should  clear  the  ground 
by  about  two  feet.  It  is  well  to  place  a  tin  or  other  water- 
proof cover  over  the  hub,  if  it  is  exposed.  The  entire  wheel 
may  be  used,  and  the  ropes  tied  to  the  felly;  the  result 
is  a  lengthened  flying  stride,  but  an  increase  in  danger 


Working  drawings,  which  will  be  found  helpful  in  constructing 
apparatus,  may  be  found  in  "Playground  Technique  and  Play- 
craft,"  a  book  by  Arthur  Leland,  published  by  Doubleday,  Page 
&  Co.,  at  $2.50;  and  in  Chapter  VIII  of  "Play  and  Athletics, 
Bulletin  No.  1842,"  published  by  the  University  of  Texas,  Austin, 

IVxaS-  [Forty-eight] 


Other  forms  of  apparatus  which  require  almost  no 
expense  for  construction,  installation  or  maintenance 
are  the  jumping-pit,  balancing-tree,  hillock,  climb- 
ing-tree and  jumping-stairs  described  by  Dr.  E.  H. 
Arnold. 

Jumping-Pit 

This  consists  of  an  excavation  ten  or  more  feet 
wide,  thirty  or  more  feet  long,  three  or  more  feet 
deep  at  one  of  the  narrow  sides,  running  from  this 
depth  diagonally  upward  to  the  upper  edge  at  the 
other  narrow  end.  The  sides  of  the  pit  are  made 
secure  by  stout  planks,  properly  prepared  to  with- 
stand moisture.  The  ground  around  is  well  evened 
up.  The  bottom  of  the  pit  is  free  from  stones  and 
covered  with  at  least  six  inches,  if  possible  more,  of 
good  sand.  In  this  pit  babes  may  enjoy  the  sand 
play.  Deep  jumping  from  the  sides  at  various 
heights  into  the  sand  is  enjoyed  by  the  smaller 
children.  For  broad- jumping,  standing  and  running 
it  is  excellent.  The  first  attempts  at  pole-vaulting 
may  be  made  from  the  edge  of  this  pit.  With  some 
assistance  tumbling  may  be  done  from  the  edges  into 
the  pit. 

Balancing-Tree 

The  balancing-tree  is  a  large  anji  perfectly 
straight  tree,  fifty  or  more  feet  long,  freed  of  the 
bark  and  rounded  off.  It  is  supported  by  two  or 
three  wooden  feet,  one  at  the  extreme  thick  end, 

[  Forty-nine} 


the  other  one  sufficiently  far  from  the  thinner  end  to 
allow  the  thin  end  free  play  to  swing.  At  the 
thicker  end  the  tree  may  be  two  and  more  feet  in 
diameter.  It  tapers  to  an  end  of  four  or  six  inches 
in  diameter,  which  is  free  to  swing.  The  tree  is  so 
supported  that  at  its  thicker  end  its  upper  edge 
would  be  three  to  three  and  one-half  feet  from  the 
ground.  The  tree  is  then  placed  securely  on  its  feet 
so  that  its  long  axle  is  horizontal.  This  tree,  as  its 
name  implies,  gives  a  chance  for  balancing  exercises 
on  a  broad  and  steady  and  also  on  a  more  and  more 
narrow  surface,  which  sways  and  swings.  It  may 
be  used  for  deep  jumping,  for  vaults  of  all  kinds. 
In  the  more  solid  parts  of  the  tree  holes  may  be 
drilled  and  pommels  may  be  fastened  on  it;  then  we 
have  it  serve  all  the  purposes  of  a  horse  or  saddle- 
boom.  Children  may  ride  on  it  astride,  may  swing 
on  the  movable  part,  and  should  in  that  position 
find  great  enjoyment. 

Hillock 

The  hillock  consists  of  a  small  elevation  on  the 
playground,  two  to  five  feet  high,  from  three  to  six 
feet  wide  at  the  base,  tapering  off  toward  the  top, 
well  covered  with  turf.  Deep  jumping,  high  jump- 
ing and  hurdling  may  be  done  on  and  off  and  over 
this.  Pole-vaulting  may  be  taught  from  it.  This 
gives  opportunity  for  the  much-enjoyed  frolic,  rolling 
of  children.  In  winter,  when  it  is  covered  with 
snow,  it  gives  a  fine  start  for  the  sled.  It  invites  war 
games  for  the  possession  of  the  top  of  it. 

[Fifty] 


Climbing-Tree 

The  climbing-tree  is  a  straight  tree  no  less  than 
thirty  feet  high,  made  smooth,  but  not  necessarily 
altogether  even,  securely  implanted.  Its  top  is  pro- 
tected by  a  platform  sufficiently  wide  not  to  allow 
its  edge  to  be  grasped  by  the  climber.  While  this 
apparatus  serves  climbing  primarily,  until  the  in- 
genuity of  the  child  makes  it  the  center  for  other 
games,  it  furthers  that  type  of  climbing  which  is 
the  normal  and  natural  one,  and  which  can  be 
practised  only  on  trees  and  for  which  the  gymnasium 
climbing-pole  gives  no  chance  at  all.  Two  of  these 
may  be  made  the  end-supports  of  the  playground 
swings. 

Jumping-Stairs 

These  are  wooden  stairs  of  ordinary  construction, 
leading  with  ten  or  twelve  steps  to  a  height  of  from 
six  to  eight  feet  either  to  a  platform,  or,  better,  to 
stairs  of  the  same  type,  leading  down  on  the  other 
side  of  the  platform.  If  the  sides  of  this  are  inclosed 
by  boards  and  a  door  cut  in,  it  may  be  made  the 
receptacle  for  playground  hand  apparatus.  These 
stairs  are  surrounded  on  all  four  sides  with  sand  of 
at  least  six-inch  thickness.  Anyone  who  has  ever 
watched  the  great  fondness  of  children  for  jumping 
from  stairs  will  know  that  the  installation  of  this 
apparatus  is  only  half  completed  before  the  children 
are  beginning  to  make  use  of  it  for  broad,  high  and 
deep  jumping.  It  may  once  more  be  used  to  start 

[Fifty-one] 


pole-vaulting.  Some  tumbling  may  be  done  from  it. 
On  the  solid  side  of  it  targets  may  be  painted.  The 
sand  around  it  gives  a  good  place  for  the  sand  play 
of  small  children,  fjut  also  for  a  free  bout  of  friendly 
wrestling  of  boys. 


Leaflet  No.  42  issued  hy  the  Junior  Red  Cross,  44  East 
Twenty-third  street,  New  York  City,  gives  helpful  suggestions  on 
the  construction  of  home-made  apparatus. 


[Fifty-two] 


CHAPTER  V 
The  Athletic  Field 

General  Considerations 

Athletic  fields,  providing  tennis  courts,  running- 
track,  baseball  and  football  grounds,  a  field-house  or 
locker-building,  and  sometimes  a  swimming-pool, 
must  oftentimes,  because  of  the  space  necessary  for 
their  development,  be  placed  at  a  distance  from  the 
regular  playground.  Since  they  are  generally  used 
by  the  older  youths  and  adults,  they  will  serve  a 
territory  of  a  mile  or  more  in  radius  and  may  be 
located  on  or  near  main  thoroughfares.  Five  acres 
constitutes  the  minimum  area  for  such  fields.  Many 
will  wish  to  make  use  of  the  field  at  night,  and 
arrangements  should  therefore  be  made  for  lighting. 

Surfacing  and  Orientation 

Two  points  which  must  be  given  particular  con- 
sideration in  laying  out  ballfields,  running-tracks 
and  game  courts  are  surfacing  and  orientation.  The 
points  on  surfacing  given  in  Chapter  I  hold  generally 
for  athletic  fields,  as  well  as  playgrounds.  As  most 
games  are  played  in  the  afternoon,  and  as  the  low 
sun  is  the  most  troublesome,  it  is  best  to  run  the  long 

[Fifty-three} 


dimension  of  the  field  north  and  south  in  games 
like  football  and  tennis,  where  the  playing  is  up  and 
down  the  area  of  play.  Opinions  differ  regarding 
the  baseball  field,  and  circumstances  often  make 
certain  arrangements  necessary.  Probably  the  best 
I  arrangement,  however,  is  that  of  having  the  line 
between  home-plate  and  first-base  run  north  and 
south. 

Marking  Courts 

Boundary  lines  should  be  plainly  marked.  White- 
linen  tape  fastened  to  the  ground  with  wooden  pins 
is  often  used,  but  it  is  not  now  as  popular  a  method 
of  marking  as  with  white-wash  or  wet  lime.  Dry 
marks  may  be  made  with  marble  dust,  slaked  lime 
or  a  mixture  of  two  parts  sand  and  one  whiting. 
Roller-markers  for  making  wet  or  dry  marks  may  be 
purchased.  Mr.  Paul  Williams  suggests,  in  an  article 
on  the  construction  of  tennis  courts,  a  stencil  for 
applying  whitewash  which  may  be  made  in  case  a 
marker  is  not  available.  This  consists  of  two  light 
boards  about  three  feet  long  placed  parallel  to  each 
other  with  an  open  space  between  them  the  width 
of  the  line;  a  handle  may  be  put  on  one  end  for 
convenience.  With  an  old  broom  as  a  brush,  the 
lines  may  easily  be  gone  over  and  fairly  good  results 
obtained.  A  sprinkling  can  with  the  spout  flattened 
down,  leaving  only  a  small  opening,  is  sometimes 
used  for  a  tennis  marker. 

[Fifty- four  I 


The  Baseball  Diamond* 

The  regular  game  of  baseball  with  a  hard  ball  is 
played  on  a  level  field,  preferably  not  less  than  325 
feet  square,  in  which  the  "diamond,"  or  infield, 
ninety  feet  by  ninety  feet,  is  outlined  obliquely  to 
the  boundaries  of  the  larger  field.  The  "home- 
plate"  is  usually  made  of  whitened  rubber,  five- 
sided,  measuring  twelve  inches  along  the  lines  of 
the  diamond  from  the  angle,  seventeen  inches  across 
the  front  and  eight  and  one-half  inches  from  the 
twelve-inch  lines  to  the  forward  line.  It  should  not 
be  closer  than  ninety  feet  to  the  grandstand.  The 
first,  second  and  third  bases  measure  fifteen  inches 
by  fifteen  inches  and  run  to  the  right  from  the 
"home-plate." 

The  "batter's  box"  consists  of  an  oblong  en- 
closure, six  feet  by  four  feet,  drawn  six  inches  from 
the  "home-plate"  on  each  side.  The  pitcher's  plate 
is  of  whitened  rubber,  twenty-four  inches  by  six 
inches,  placed  practically  in  the  center  of  the  dia- 
mond on  a  gradually  sloping  mound  not  more  than 
fifteen  inches  higher  than  the  home-plate.  The 
catcher's  place  is  in  a  triangle  drawn  immediately 
back  of  the  home-plate  by  extending  the  lines  of  the 
diamond  and  connecting  them  with  a  line  ten  feet 
from  the  point  of  the  plate. 

A  high-board  or  wire  fence  erected  ninety  feet 
back  of  the  home-plate  serves  as  a  backstop.  It 


*Description  of  fields  taken  from  the  "Handbook  of  Athletic 
Games,"  by  Bancroft  and  Pulvermacher,  published  by  The  Mac- 
millati  Co.,  64  Fifth  Ave.,  New  York  City. 

[Fifty- five] 


is  suggested  that  time  is  saved  in  amateur  games 
by  having  the  backstop  about  thirty  feet  from  the 
home  plate  instead  of  the  regulation  ninety  feet. 

The  foul  lines  are  made  by  continuing  beyond 
first  and  third  bases  to  the  edge  of  the  playing  en- 
closure the  lines  of  the  diamond  running  forward  on 
either  side  from  the  home-plate.  The  "three-foot" 
line  is  drawn  parallel  to  the  diamond  from  home  to 
first  base  for  the  latter  half  of  it  and  three  feet  from 
it.  Coachers'  lines  are  drawn  off  first  and  third 
bases  toward  the  home-plate,  fifteen  feet  from  the 
outline  of  the  diamond  parallel  to  the  four  lines. 

Benches  for  players  are  placed  back  of  the  batter 
fifty  feet  from  the  diamond. 

Note:  Oftentimes  there  is  not  enough  space 
available  to  have  a  field  325  feet  square.  In  this 
case  a  smaller  diamond  can  be  quite  satisfactory. 
It  is  suggested  that  on  city  plots  it  is  more  practical 
to  build  the  backstop  with  an  over  hanging  wire  top 
to  prevent  foul  balls  going  out  of  the  field  into 
streets  or  buildings.  A  successful  cage  backstop  is 
one  within  fifteen  feet  from  the  home-plate,  made 
of  heavy  wire  and  overhanging  the  home-plate  by 
twelve  inches  or  more. 

The  Football  Field 

The  football  field  consists  of  a  rectangle,  360  feet 
by  160  feet,  called,  respectively,  side  lines  and  end 
lines.  Ten  yards  inside  of  each  end  line  is  drawn  a 
parallel  line  called  the  goal  line,  marking  off  the 

[Fifty -six] 


end  zone.    At  intervals  of  five  yards,  parallel  with 
these  lines,  other  lines  are  drawn  for  an  aid  in  judg 
ing  distances.     All  lines  should  be  very  distinct) 
especially  the  boundary  lines  and  the  end,  goal  and 
twenty  and  forty-yard  lines. 

A  goal,  consisting  of  two  upright  posts  at  least 
twenty  feet  high  and  placed  eighteen  feet  six  inches 
apart,  with  a  horizontal  crossbar  ten  feet  from  the 
ground,  is  placed  in  the  center  of  each  of  the  goal 
lines.  For  soccer,  the  goal  posts  should  be  twenty- 
four  feet  apart,  with  the  crossbars  eight  feet  from 
the  ground. 

The  Hockey  Field 

Field  hockey  may  be  played  in  the  football  field. 
It  needs  a  space  150  to  180  feet  wide,  300  feet  long 
and  about  a  thirty-foot  additional  space  behind  the 
goal  lines.  Flags  on  posts  four  feet  high  are  often 
put  up  to  mark  the  corners  and  sides  of  the  field. 
The  field  is  divided  into  halves  by  a  transverse  line 
and  each  half  divided  by  another  transverse  line 
twenty-five  yards  from  the  goal  line.  A  cross  is 
drawn  in  the  center  on  the  half-way  line.  The  strik- 
ing circle  is  made  by  drawing  a  line  four  yards  long 
fifteen  yards  in  front  of  each  goal  and  parallel  with 
the  goal  lines  and  connecting  the  end  of  this  line  to 
the  goal  line,  with  a  quarter  circle  for  which  the 
goal  post  is  the  center.  The  goals  consist  of  posts 
seven  feet  high,  two  inches  broad  and  three  inches 
deep  placed  twelve  feet  apart  and  connected  by  a 

{Fifty-seven} 


crossbar.     Each  goal  is  provided  with  a  net  for 
catching  the  ball. 

The  Running-Track 

Local  conditions  will  usually  dictate  the  shape 
and  size  of  a  running-track.  A  track  of  less  than 
a  quarter  of  a  mile  is  not,  however,  considered  de- 
sirable for  important  games*. 

The  following  suggestions  and  diagram  with  the 
accompanying  key,  are  printed  through  the  courtesy 
of  the  Amateur  Athletic  Union  of  the  United  States 
and  A.  G.  Spalding  &  Bros. 

An  athletic  field  badly  designed  or  constructed  tends  to 
lessen  interest,  and  as  in  many  cases  it  is  difficult  to  obtain 
the  information  locally,  we  present  herewith  a  sample  dia- 
gram (See  page  59).  The  track  was  designed  for  the  1916 
national  championships  of  the  Amateur  Athletic  Union  of 
the  United  States,  and  is  situated  in  Weequahic  Park, 
Newark,  N.  J.  The  arrangement  was  conceded  by  leading 
athletic  authorities  to  be  ideal,  and  the  fact  that  a  number 
of  new  American  records  were  established,  testifies  to  the 
speed  and  construction  of  the  track.  The  track  was  designed 
and  laid  out  by  Mr.  Frederick  W.  Rubien  of  New  York, 
Secretary  of  the  Amateur  Athletic  Union  of  the  United 
States.  Mr.  Rubien,  who  is  a  civil  engineer  and  surveyor, 
has  had  many  years  experience  in  the  construction  of 
athletic  tracks. 

An  athletic  field  can  be  laid  out  on  almost  any  level  area 
and  while  no  hard  and  fast,  rule  can  be  laid  down  as  to 
the  selection  of  a  plot,  nevertheless  if  the  ground  is  high 
and  dry  a  better  result  will  be  obtained. 

It  is  generally  conceded  that  a  running  track  measuring 
four  laps  to  a  mile  is  the  most  popular  size  for  outdoor 


"Satisfactory  dimensions  for  running-tracks  for  minimum  areas 
are  as  follows: 

4  laps  to  the  mile,  center  line  267.3  ft.  Radii  125  ft. 

5  «      «     «       »           "           "    135.3  "  "       125  " 

6  "      "     "       "            "            "     116.4  "  "        103  " 
8     «      "     "       "                        "     115.8  "  100  " 

[Fifty-eight] 


$ 

y. 


{Fifty-nine] 


sports.  In  addition  to  the  track  events  proper,  pole  vaulting 
and  the  jumps  may  be  contested  without  interruption,  while 
the  field  competitions — javelin,  discus,  shot,  hammer  and  the 
heavy  weight — can  be  carried  on  within  sight  of  the  specta- 
tors and  with  safety  to  contestants  and  officials.  A  very 
satisfactory  baseball  diamond  can  be  laid  out  within  the 
limits  of  the  track,  and  the  space  is  ideal  for  intercollegiate 
and  soccer  foot  ball.  Outdoor  basketball  is  practicable, 
while  permanent  tennis  courts  also  can  be  included. 

The  expense  of  construction  of  a  running  track  has  de- 
terred many  establishments  from  attempting  to  build  one, 
while  others  have  been  failures  from  the  first,  owing  to 
faulty  construction.  A  glance  at  the  cross  section  (page  59) 
will  call  attention  to  the  inexpensive  and  light,  springy 
nature  of  the  track  as  against  the  heavy,  macadam  construc- 
tion so  often  employed.  An  all  cinder  track  is  absolutely 
worthless.  The  cinders  will  not  pack,  they  tear  up  easily, 
and  it  is  the  hardest  kind  of  a  track  to  keep  in  condition. 

The  infield,  from  curb  to  curb,  is  212  feet  wide,  about  30 
feet  wider  than  the  track  in  the  famous  Harvard  Stadium. 
The  turns  are  not  as  sharp  as  in  the  latter  and  the  tangents 
are  about  108  yards  long.  The  entire  track,  which  is  spirit 
level  throughout,  except  for  the  slight  banking  on  the  turns, 
is  24  feet  wide,  permitting  six  lanes  for  the  sprints  and  five 
regulation  width  hurdles.  It  has  a  220  yard  straightaway, 
the  440  yards  was  run  with  one  turn  and  the  880  yards 
with  two  turns.  The  main  seating  accommodations  are 
along  the  220  yard  straightaway.  The  jumping  pits  are 
located  directly  opposite  the  stand  and  about  15  feet  inside 
of  the  curb,  affording  the  greatest  number  of  spectators  an 
excellent  view.  This  arrangement  is  preferable  to  having 
all  of  these  events  crowded  at  one  end  of  the  infield.  The 
locations  of  the  weight  events  are  distributed  about  the 
infield  and  do  not  interfere  with  each  other  or  place  the 
officials  or  spectators  in  jeopardy  from  miscalculated  throws. 

After  a  track  has  been  built  it  should  not  be  allowed  to 
run  down,  constant  attention  being  necessary  to  keep  it  up 
to  a  high  standard  of  efficiency.  It  is  simply  money  wasted 
to  build  an  athletic  track  and  then  expect  it  to  keep  in 
condition  without  any  further  attention.  A  groundsman 
should  be  employed,  whose  duty  it  should  be  to  care  for 
the  track  exclusively.  In  dry  weather  it  should  be  sprinkled 
every  day  or  two  and  gone  over  daily,  scraped  and  rolled, 
and  all  uneven  surfaces  brought  up  to  a  level.  The  best 
made  tracks  will  develop  these  depressions  and  the  best 
way  to  discover  them  is  to  go  out  on  the  track  immediately 


after  a  rainstorm  and  note  where  the  puddles  occur.  Throw 
into  each  puddle  a  block  of  wood,  to  serve  as  a  marker 
when  the  water  has  disappeared.  These  imperfections  should 
have  immediate  attention.  It  is  also  a  good  plan  to  have 
several  loads  of  the  finest  sieved  cinders  on  hand,  which 
should  be  worked  in  from  time  to  time  with  the  top 
dressing,  rolled,  scraped  and  watered. 

*1 — Track  (quarter  mile). 
2 — Running  high  jump. 
3— Pole  vault. 


Standard;  vaulting  poles; 
take-off  board. 

4 — Running  broad  jump. 
Take-off  board. 

5 — Running  hop,  step  and 
jump. 

6 — 56  Ib.  weight  throw  for 
distance. 

Official  56  Ib.  brass  shell 
filled  weight;  iron  circle. 

7 — 16  Ib.  shot  put. 

Official  16  Ib.  brass  shell 
filled  shot;  iron  circle; 
stop-board. 

8 — Jayelin  throw. 

Official  j  a  v  e  1  i  ns ;  toe- 
board. 

9 — 16  Ib.  hammer  throw. 
Official   16  Ib.   brass  shell 
filled      hammer;      iron 
circle;    sector  flags. 
10 — Discus  throw. 

Official     Olympic    discus; 
iron  circle;   sector  flags. 
1 1 — Protective    cage,    ham- 
mer and  discus  throws. 
12 — Metal   sector  flags   for 
hammer  throw  and  dis- 
cus. 

13— Start  220,  440,  880 
yards  run;  220  yards 
hurdle  race. 


Sets  (three  or  four)  of 
10  combination  official 
hurdles. 

14— Start  of  120  yards  hur- 
dle race. 

Use  same  sets  of  hurdles 
as  for  220  yards  hurdle 
race,  adjusting  to  correct 
height. 

15 — Finish   10Q  yards  run; 
120  yards  hurdle  race; 
880  yards  run;   1  mile 
run;  5  mile  run. 
Finish  posts. 

16— Foot  ball  field. 

Use  tennis  marker  for 
making  whitewash  lines. 

1 7 — Foot  ball  goal  posts. 

18 — Movable    base    ball 
backstop. 

10 — Home  plate  (rubber). 

20— First  base. 

Base  bags;  use  tennis 
marker  for  making  foul 
lines,  etc. 

21 — Pitcher's  plate  (rubber). 

22 — Basket  ball  court. 

23 — Goal  and  backstop. 

Goal  nets;  use  tennis 
marker  for  boundary  lines. 

24 — Single  and  double  ten- 
nis Qpurt. 
Marker  for  lines  of  court. 

25 — Net  and  posts. 

Single  and  double  nets; 
adjustable  posts. 


Accessories — Platform  (movable)  for  judge  at  finish;  gon? 
to  attach  to  finish  post  to  announce  beginning  of  last  lap; 
red  worsted  for  finish  line;  stakes  and  cord  to  make  lanes 
for  sprints;  whistle  for  officials;  pistol  for  starter;  mega- 
phone for  announcer;  steel  tapes  for  measuring;  rake  for 
jumping  pits.  Timers  provide  their  own  stop  watches.  It  is 

*See  diagram    (p.  59)   for  numbers. 
[Sixty-one] 


also  advisable  to  have  a  bench,  with  smooth  board  in 
front,  securely  nailed,  to  serve  as  a  desk  for  reporters.  For 
duties  of  officials,  and  general  conduct  of  an  athletic  meet, 
see  Official  Handbook  of  the  Amateur  Athletic  Union  of 
the  United  States  (Spalding's  Athletic  Library  No.  12A), 
price  10  cents. 

Tennis  Courts 

There  are  various  types  of  tennis  courts,  includ- 
ing courts  of  grass,  asphalt,  concrete  and  clay.  A 
dirt  court,  when  properly  laid  out  and  cared  for, 
wears  well  and  probably  offers  the  best  combination 
of  durability,  reasonable  construction  cost  and  up- 
keep expense.  Space  determines  the  number  of 
courts  which  may  be  provided. 

Surfacing  is  here  a  most  important  factor  as  there 
must  be  no  humps  or  hollows  if  they  can  possibly 
be  avoided.  One  authority  feels  that  for  clay  courts 
a  pitch  of  six  inches  from  back  line  to  centre  is 
necessary  to  solve  the  drainage  problem.  On  the 
tennis  courts  in  Grand  Rapids  a  pitch  of  six  inches 
from  the  middle  to  the  end  has  been  found  satis- 
factory. Mr.  Paul  Williams,  in  his  article  on  tennis 
court  construction,  suggests  the  following  as  the 
usual  best  method  of  building  a  dirt  court:  Cut 
away  the  earth  to  the  depth  of  one  foot;  level 
carefully  and  be  sure  the  grade  is  right.  Put  in 
about  six  inches  of  broken  stone,  the  size  of  the  stone 
ranging  from  two  inches  to  one  inch  in  diameter. 
Pound  down  very  hard.  Put  on  a  three-inch  layer 
of  finely  broken  stone  or  crushed  gravel.  Pound 
this  down  and  keep  well  watered  for  several  days. 
Be  sure  and  keep  the  foundation  perfectly  smooth 
and  level.  Now  add  the  top  dressing  which  should 

[Sixty-two] 


be  from  three  to  six  inches  thick.  A  mixture  of  sand 
and  clay  may  be  used  for  this.  If  the  clay  is  sticky, 
use  one  part  of  sand  to  four  of  clay.  Usually  eight 
of  clay  to  one  of  sand  is  the  right  mixture.  A  very 
soft  court. needs  more  clay;  a  sticky  surface  needs 
more  sand.  Water  well  and  roll  twice  daily  for  two 
weeks  before  the  court  is  used.  Light  raking, 
careful  rolling  and  sprinkling  will  produce  a  firm 
surface  free  from  hollows  and  humps. 

Laying  out  the  court  is  a  simple  process  although 
it  requires  accuracy  in  measurement.  A  clear  space 
sixty  feet  by  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  is  re- 
quired in  order  to  leave  room  for  the  runways  at  the 
ends  and  sides.  The  singles  court  is  twenty-seven 
feet  by  seventy-eight  feet,  while  the  doubles  court 
is  thirty-six  feet  wide.  The  net  posts  should  be 
forty-two  feet  apart  and  to  mark  the  court  it  is 
necessary  to  square  the  lines  by  these  posts.  Drive 
a  stake  three  feet  inside  each  post,  these  stakes  being 
exactly  thirty-six  feet  apart.  Lay  out  one  side  line 
seventy-eight  feet  long,  passing  over  one  stake  which 
comes  at  the  thirty-nine  foot  mark  or  half  the 
length  of  the  side  line.  By  making  the  distance 
from  each  end  of  the  seventy-eight-foot  line  to  the 
opposite  stake  equal,  the  side  line  can  be  squared 
and  the  other  laid  out  in  the  same  manner.  It  is 
then  simply  a  matter  of  measurement  to  put  in  the 
service  and  base  lines.  The  back  stops  should  not 
be  set  so  close  to  the  court  as  to  cut  down  open 
space.  Wire  netting  carried  on  wood  or  steel  posts 
is  the  material  generally  used  for  backstops.  Most 

[Sixty-three] 


courts  are  marked  with  lime  put  on  wet.  Both  grass 
and  dirt  courts  should  be  rolled  after  being  used  but 
it  is  useless  to  do  this  until  any  inequalities  in  the 
surface  have  been  repaired.  This  is  particularly  true 
with  the  dirt  court.  After  it  has  been  played  upon, 
it  should  be  dragged  or  swept,  using  a  piece  of  scant- 
ling to  weight  down  several  thicknesses  of  burlap. 
This  brushes  out  all  the  little  irregularities  and  then 
rolling  and  sprinkling  are  in  order. 

Bleachers 

The  bleachers  should  be  built  of  wood,  in  sections 
capable  of  being  carried,  so  that  they  can  be  placed 
around  the  baseball  field,  or  up  and  down  the  side 
lines  of  the  football  field.  They  should  be  put  to- 
gether with  bolts  so  that  they  can  be  taken  down 
and  stored  during  the  winter.  The  portable  bleach- 
ers used  on  the  San  Diego,  California,  playgrounds, 
are  put  up  in  sections — each  section  holding  eighty 
people.  It  is  estimated  that  two  men  with  a  team 
can  take  twenty  bleachers  down  and  put  them  up 
again  in  half  a  day. 

Field  House 

There  are  many  different  types  of  field  houses 
varying  greatly  in  size  and  cost.  Some  contain  a 
library,  clubrooms,  game-rooms,  a  kitchen,  restau- 
rant, gymnasium,  running-track  and  many  other 
facilities.  The  Chicago  and  Seattle  field-houses  are 
noted  for  their  beauty  and  usefulness.  However,  a 
field-house  does  not  necessarily  have  to  be  large  or 

[Sixty- four] 


expensive.  The  facilities  which  it  should  provide 
are  toilets,  shower-baths,  an  office,  dressing-rooms, 
a  locker-room,  and,  if  possible,  a  recreation  room. 
A  comparatively  inexpensive  one-story  field-house 
built  in  Racine,  Wisconsin,  contains  a  gymnasium, 
twelve  shower-baths,  toilets  for  men  and  women,  a 
reading-room,  kitchen  and  recreation  room.  Space 
has  been  economized  by  using  the  recreation  room 
as  a  dressing-room  and  having  a  sectional  movable 
platform  instead  of  a  permanent  stage.  The  locker- 
room  contains  a  few  steel  lockers,  but  it  is  also  fitted 
with  pigeonholes  in  which  are  slipped  wire  baskets. 
This  method  has  been  found  an  economy  of  space 
and  money. 

The  Playground  and  Recreation  Association  of 
America,  1  Madison  Avenue,  New  York  City,  will 
be  glad  to  furnish  suggestions  for  the  construction 
of  such  buildings,  upon  application. 

The  Swimming  Pool 

The  swimming-pool  is  a  playground  in  itself.  Be- 
cause of  the  number  of  points  which  should  be 
discussed  in  considering  its  construction,  full  space 
cannot  be  given  to  it  here.  The  question  of  size 
and  depth  will,  of  course,  be  governed  by  local 
conditions.  Outdoor  pools  are  usually  of  concrete 
and  vary  from  seventy-five  to  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  long  and  from  thirty  to  sixty  feet  wide. 
A  long,  narrow  pool  is  preferable.  The  depth  should 
not  be  more  than  four  feet  at  the  shallow  end  nor 
less  than  seven  feet  at  the  deeper  end. 

[Sixty-fat} 


The  following  points  must  be  given  particular 
consideration  in  building  swimming  pools: 

The  relationship  of  the  pool  bottom  and  the  sewer 
level  ought  to  be  carefully  determined  beforehand, 
so  as  to  avoid  the  expense  of  pumps  for  emptying 
the  pool. 

Provision  should  be  made  for  filtering  and  sterili- 
zing the  water. 

There  should  be  an  adequate  water  supply  and 
sufficiently  large  openings  for  rapid  supply  and 
escape  in  the  pool. 

A  hose  connection  should  be  provided  with  hot 
and  cold  water  for  use  in  washing  the  pool. 

Adequate  shower-baths  and  bath-houses  should  be 
supplied  and  an  office  should  be  provided  for  the 
swimming  instructor.. 

Helpful  suggestions  on  the  construction  and  care 
of  swimming  pools  are  given  in  the  following  pamph- 
lets: 

"Swimming  Pools,"  by  V.  K.  Brown  and  S.  K. 
Nason,  price  15c.,  and  "Some  Notes  on  the  Con- 
struction and  Administration  of  Swimming  Pools," 
by  Joseph  E.  Raycroft,  price  20c.  Both  pamphlets 
are  published  by  The  Playground  and  Recreation 
Association  of  America,  1  Madison  Avenue,  New 
York  City. 

[Sh-ty  \/r| 


Conclusion 

In  closing,  it  may  be  worth  while  to  point  out  the 
fact  that  a  fully-equipped  playground  cannot  be  of 
any  great  use  unless  it  is  properly  maintained. 
Ample  funds  should,  therefore,  be  provided  for 
upkeep  and  operation.  "To  spend  a  great  deal  of 
money  for  playground  equipment  and  little  for 
maintenance  and  operation  is  like  saving  at  the 
spigot  and  wasting  at  the  bunghole." 


[Sixty-seven] 


14  DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 

LOAN  DEPT. 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below,  or 

on  the  date  to  which  renewed. 
Renewed  Knnlc  *«•«>  ci]hifirLTQ  immirilijT  recall. 


Jl/A/  7 


LD  21A-60m-10,'65 
(F7763slO)476B 


Genet 

University 


